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The course features the following:

  • Peculiarities of dress cutting.
  • Important features of soft cup making.
  • Unusual cutting and sewing.
  • New approach to pattern alteration and usage of automatic tables, developed specifically for such model.
  • No use of the Rigilene boning in a corset.
  • No duplication of dress pieces.
  • Complex “plaid” drapery.
  • Draping and folding of a skirt.
  • Rules for hidden bar tacks on drapery.
  • Calculation, cutting and hemming of a crinoline –petticoat.
  • Joining and finishing some dress pieces on a dress-form.
  • Luneville (tambour) embroidery of the decorative elements with pearls, sequins and beads. 

 

The course includes the following attachments:

  • Pattern Alterations Calculation Software for the dress and skirt cutting ;
  • Dress patterns (PDF file);
  • Embroidery patterns (PDF file).

The purpose of this course is to teach you the sewing techniques of this dress. All the techniques can be combined, that gives the opportunity to sew various evening, cocktail, prom and wedding dresses.

The course is useful both to beginners in corset-making as well as to experienced fashion designers.  It can be used for dressmaking atelier personnel as a professional development course.

 

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 8h 58m

Foreword.

Hello my dear colleagues and like-minded people! I, Tatiana Kozorovitsky, will be your teacher and mentor during the next few hours in creation of the wedding dress with complex drapery. My every course is a new model, new technique, new pattern and new decoration techniques.     

What will you learn from the course “Soft wedding dress with drapery”? The title speaks for itself. The main topic is the drapery on the soft base. You will learn to make the complex braided drapery from a fabric piece, to make drapery in the hip area of the dress and to create complex folds on the skirt front and on the train.

Finally, you will get the answer to the question: “How can I sew such dress?”

I made the whole photo session from the dresses I received from you along with the question how it was made and if you could cope with its making.


















All these dresses are made in the same technique, which I will describe in this course. You will not only learn to drape folds, but to fix them professionally. I will demonstrate which threads and hand stitches to use for tacks on the bodice, hips and skirt.

Only about 20 % of this dress is sewn with the sewing machine, the remainder is handmade.

Our dress will be created on a dress-form as it is done in the best fashion houses. No fusible net, glue, duplicating materials! The dress is soft and for 80% it is handmade, this is a real haute-couture garment.

To make a foreword short I try to quickly tell what you will learn from this course in the nearest future.

The calculation of the individual pattern will not take much time. Now there are special automatic tables, developed by me for pattern alteration of this dress. However, the unusual cut and sewing will require thorough approach to the pattern alteration. There are specific tutorials regarding this issue in this course.

By the way, a new pattern is attached to this course. This pattern was not presented in the previous courses and it was specially developed for such dresses with drapery.

I will demonstrate the important techniques to work with the soft cup. We will discuss in detail the tiny mistakes, which can lead to serious defects if not considered.

A particular attention is given to the soft cup strengthening and shaping.

There are ribbon loops for lacing on the dress back. I will teach you not only to make lacing, which is the most important operation, but I will reveal the professional secret how to fix the drapery at the lacing edge. The main trick of the secret is that the horizontal folds do not form so-called “ladder’” along the vertical edge of the back. Only correct sequence operations in dress making can lead to the desired outcome. You have to consider many factors. If you follow my recommendations, learn every tutorial without skipping, you will be proud of the result!

The automatic tables will calculate the petticoat pattern for cutting and sewing.  You will get the clear pattern for the tulle ruffles. Moreover, you will be able to regulate the fabric consumption depending on the tulle used (its hardness and width)

I will explain which parameters to set in order to get various shapes of the skirts from the balloon-like to flared trapeze.

I prepared the preliminary mockup of the future dress before recording the course.

Listen to my advice: don’t be lazy! Before starting the complex model make its miniature copy on a scale mockup. I insist on making mockups in every course and still I face some skepticism towards this preliminary work. And it is a big mistake! This is not something unnecessary, it is the most important preparation stage and you should make it a rule! It is not enough to draw the sketch or to use the ready photo. You won’t be able to calculate the real proportions, to find out the pieces of the skirt, to determine the volume of the skirt and petticoat and to calculate the preliminary fabric consumption without the miniature copy.

Finally, you will not check if it is technically possible to create such dress! You might imagine as many times as you want the future model and the sewing techniques, but when you make a miniature mockup, you will see numerous little things, which you could not avoid. So, you will preliminary think over a strategy to avoid those difficulties while sewing the real dress and save your time significantly. For example, you will see the fabric thickness for drapery, how the folding looks on the hips and the train and so on.

I am not telling you to make a mockup for this dress as I have already made all preliminary work and you have the whole description and action plan. Although your work will not be limited to this model only! You will have new models and new structures. Make mockups! It will save you from long thinking, speed up the process and give you the answers earlier, but not when you face those difficulties during sewing the dress from an expensive fabric.

Sometimes I received the letters, where you ask how the cutting of a skirt on a photo is made. Please understand me right, but I have no experience in sewing all skirts in the world. To answer the question correctly I have to make a mockup and all calculations. But in fact, you can do it yourself! Moreover, I have explained everything in detail in the course “Dressmaker’s treasure. Wedding skirts and petticoats”. Besides, many owners of this course received “Scale designer’s dress-form” as a present. Thus, you’ve got the knowledge and the tools for mocking-up! If something goes wrong or you have a doubt, you can write to me or our forum. Trust me, when you start mocking-up all theoretical questions will disappear and you won’t have anything to ask! If you don’t have those courses, I recommend buying them!

The miniature dress-form, developed by me, helped me many times. Regarding this course, I would not be able to cut all necessary pieces for the skirt of necessary volume from the first attempt without preliminary mocking-up. After all, I could calculate the fabric consumption for this dress and buy as much fabric as I needed.

The mockup showed the height to start the skirt drapery, how many horizontal folds I can get if the fabric width is 150 cm, the depth of the folds, where to make the interlacing, so that the dress looks balanced, where to start flare and what type of petticoat I need, so the skirt does not look too wide and complies with the necessary proportions.

The mockup helped, so I could cut, sew and make drapery on the dress from my first attempt without any mistake and remakes.

The dress is decorated with the Luneville embroidery. When you master these techniques, you will not want to use lace appliques for decorations.

So, let’s start our dress making and make our clients look like the celebrities in the photos.

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