I’m sure that you understand that exact and accurate measurement is the thing of high importance.
99% of mistakes and bad fitting are because of carelessness in measurement.
When you are starting to measure your client, you should have the exact plan:
- What pattern you will use in your work
- What techniques of sewing you will use in your work
- What additional measurements (according to the figure of the client) will help you to make corset of perfect size
At the beginning you and the client are discussing the style, details, trimmings. And only then you are starting to measure.
So, this is the film.
Hi! Welcome to our first lesson of short-term course. This is about how to do measurement.
Let me say few words before we will start. At first we should measure the client, and then measure the same things of the mould. So we could change the mould that we already have. In other words we will compare the measures and change the mould. Believe me, if you will understand my method, you will forget about Muller’s method and other methods, which are calculating measures.
It takes 5-10 minutes to calculate a mould, and 5-10 minutes to draw a pattern on the material. Then it takes 6-7 hours to sew, and… your client could visit you for a fitting. Then it takes 2-3 hours to complete and to change different small things. I’m talking about sewing a corset with lace or draperiers.
Believe me, it’s possible! It takes no more than 2 working days to sew an evening dress. Of course I’m just talking about time for sewing, without spending time on hand embroidery, decorating by beads, strasses and so on.
I’m so enthusiastic, because I’m working this way for many years and now I’m highly willing to share my knowledge with you.
Let’s measure. You should face the client, and it’s comfortable to place a mirror behind the back of the client. So you could see the way the tape measure goes, and so it’s easy to correct it.
Now, tie up two ropes: the one rope on the waist, the other on the belly. It’ll be much more comfortable for you, if you’ll place the rope at the borderline on the bottom of the corset. But there could be some differences. For example, if the corset is shorter on its sides and longer in the middle part. In that case you should place the rope at the corset’s sides. If you want, you could use elastic instead of the rope. But please pay attention how is your client standing, while you are measuring. The client should stay erect, the client shouldn’t move at all, even client’s hands shouldn’t move. Ropes or elastics should also stay at the same places, that you put them first time. And I’d like also to point out that you should place the rope at the waist, exactly where it should be at the result (it’s not always the narrowest place on the belly). The client should be dressed lightly, and she should wear brassiere. If the client likes push-ups bra, then she should put on the push-up.
Let’s start measurement.
The first measurement is named “breast-and-front”. The measurement is from side to side through the most prominent parts on the breast.
Please pay attention to the side view. I’m always focusing on the side seams of the dress. The measurement is through the breast from one side to another.
The second measurement is like the first one: from side to side, but directly under the breast.
I’d like to point that it is measurement from side to side through the front part of the body.
The third measurement is the standard measurement of double breast-hold. Please don’t stretch or relax the tape measure. The client put on her favorite bra and here the measurement as is.
The forth measurement is double under-the-breast-hold. Don’t stretch the tape measure. The client has to breathe freely while she puts on the corset. And it should be comfortable for the client, without suffering.
The next measurement, the fifth measurement is double waist-hold. This is the only measurement, when you have to stretch the tape measure. But don’t stretch too strongly. It’s better to hide some in the side seams after all. Usually I’m hiding about 4-5 centimeters. By the way it gives good shape and doesn’t disturb the client.
This measurement is by means of rope.
The sixth measurement is double belly-hold. Please don’t stretch the tape measure. The worst thing that could happen with the corset is cutting into the body side. And it’s necessary to write down at what height this measurement was. This height is the distance between ropes.
It’s better to use rope while measuring double belly-hold.
And now we’ll do a set of measurements. I call this set “chicken’s leg”. I like this symbol, because these measurements help us to correct moulds at the breast part.
First measurement is the center of the breast. Look at your client to determine the point, where is the best place for the reliefs. The reliefs should help to shape the beautiful and proportional figure. Only after that you can start that measurement.
Now press the tape measure by your finger to the left point, and turn around. So you could have three measures.
The first measure - till the armhole, the second – till the imaginary corner of the corset (usually I’m going through the shoulder strap of the bra), and the third measure – the distance to the low neck of the corset. You should try to imagine what does the beautiful low neck of the corset look like (it is highly individual and depends on a client).
These measurements are the same as will be on the corset. Of course you should have some experience and imagination. Don’t close the armhole too much; therefore the corset wouldn’t chafe the arm. But otherwise don’t open it too much; therefore not to let go out of the corset too much body.
The distance to the low neck of the corset is up to you too. But I would like to point out, that if the breast is small, than you should make the low neck larger; and if the breast is large, than you should make the low neck smaller.
You can have an additional measurement on the back, to construct an eye for the shoulder strap.
The measurement is a distance between the shoulder straps. I’m looking at the shoulder straps of the bra and I’m measuring that distance.
The next measurement is the wideness of the back: distance between armpits from the back (when your client put her hands down).
The next measurement is the height of this eye or a corner from the waist.
Further there are several important measurements. Imagine that a client is dreaming about a corset, but her belly couldn’t be tightened. In that case you should have two measurements: front-waist and front-belly. These two measurements are the same as the first two measurements.
You are measuring from one side to the other side through the fist and the second rope.
The next additional measurement is the height of the side to the waist. This measurement is important in the case if the height of the client is less than 160 cm, or more than 170 cm. We know the standard measure – 18-19 cm, if client’s height is 160-170 cm.
The undercutting you should measure from the waist, from the rope. And in the case if the undercutting is placed rather high, then you are measuring from the center of breast.
If it is necessary you can also measure the height of the back in the middle from waist to the top.
For now that’s all.
I have homework for you. Try to measure someone according to the sequence we have learned today.
And also please measure the mould of the corset. Write down all the measurements.