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What makes this skirt so special?   

  • Brides love wedding dresses with impressive full skirts.
  • This style is very popular for photo-shoots.
  • The entire process, from cutting to decoration, is described and illustrated in details.

Skills you gain:

  • how to calculate the petticoat of desired volume;
  • how to construct gores for the skirt with the train;
  • where to start your work on the skirt;
  • how to cut the ruffles of the skirt;
  • how to give the ruffles the desired shape;
  • how to sew on the ruffles;
  • how to calculate the materials and the fabric.

The automatic calculation tables are included in the course.

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 2h 30m

Preparatory stage.

Introduction.

I am happy to welcome you to the new course, dedicated to a modeling of the structured skirt that is the preliminary work preceding the creation of the full-size skirt.

Why do I want to review the miniature half-scale mock-up skirt, but not the sewing of the skirt?  

In my opinion the sewing of the ready cut pieces of the skirt is the routine work to stitch together kilometers of fabric. This is something, that any seamstress can cope with and the only difference is that the experienced seamstress will do it faster than the novice. Moreover, the skirt sewing is not the most important stage. The preliminary creation of the half-scale mock-up is the most important part!

Why is it so important to start the structured skirt with a mock-up?

You work out the sewing technique on the mock-up with your hands. I know it is impossible to immediately achieve the desired result after the preliminary calculations. There will be mistakes. Sometimes our imagination does not come true. We think that we will get what we have planned, but in fact it does not work. The mock-up can show whether we have made mistakes or not!     

Usually the structured wedding skirts require enormous amount of fabric, sometimes over 50 meters. Besides, the inner construction of the skirt consists of many pieces. The final result of your work should be the skirt of desired volume, length and shape. As a rule, if you start sewing the full-size skirt without the mock-up, you will not get what you planned.

The seamstresses, who work without the preliminary mock-up, usually do it as follows. The qualified seamstress has several orders for the skirts, which are in demand in this season or in this region.

So, what do they do?

They sew a skirt for one customer. I have no doubts that the seamstress will cope with the order and the customer will be satisfied, but the seamstress will notice that the skirt is similar, but not quite the same like the one in the photo.

In this case the experiences seamstress will make notes in her workbook: What would I do, if I had to sew such skirt for the second time?

The seamstress sews the second skirt for the next customer. Again, the skirt is beautiful and significantly better than the first order, the customer is happy, but the experienced seamstress can see the differences with the example in the photo.

Once again the seamstress makes notes: If I sew this skirt once again, I will change the following…

Finally, she gets what she needs from the third, fourth or even the fifth attempt!

However, it is not always the case to have several orders for the same model and to have such unassuming customers, who will be satisfied with your work, even if the skirt is far from the desired one!

Imagine the situation: you work for the expensive segment and you don’t have the right to make a mistake.   

What pops up into your head first?

Refuse the complicated order! You are just scared to waste the expensive fabric and to damage your reputation.

That is why I urge you to learn the mock-up making for complex garments!

No designer school can do without the courses on a scale designer dress-form. I also developed such course, so that you could make such a necessary tool as the scale designer dress-form. This 1:2 scale dress-form should be always at hand in your workshop, so that you can make the mock-up of the garment.

None of the famous design houses can do without the mock-ups. Watch YouTube videos from the workshop of Christian Dior. It is just the mock-up theatre!  There are miniature masterpieces with embroidery, full processing of fabric, color, proportions and so on.

And it is not a coincidence! The designers make mock-ups not because they have plenty of money and time, but to avoid further mistakes in proportions of a garment, its shape, color and even the choice of fabric. It is another big misconception when the people think that you cannot feel the quality of the fabric you use in the mock-up. Certainly, sometimes the thick fabrics in the half-size mock-up can be distorted, but the thin and light fabrics like mesh, chiffon or veil are almost the same on the mock-up and the finished garment. Thus, the mock-up is really helpful to understand in which direction to cut a ruffle or a flounce and how to strengthen and place it!

The preliminary development of the mock-up cannot be compared to anything! You will understand it while studying my new course. I will go with you through the entire process of making the structured skirt mock-up. Trust me, it will be very easy to sew the full-size skirt when you have the complete understanding starting from the gore shape of the petticoat to the shape of the last ruffle!

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