Tutorial 1. Introduction of the model. Overview of materials
I would like to briefly introduce the model, on which I will work during this course. This is a corset, the sketch of which is drawn on the board. The most distinguished feature of this corset is the scalloped edges in the neckline and the bottom.
I have already produced several courses, where the sewing of the scalloped neckline corsets with a turn-out method is demonstrated, but I have never explained in detail. Besides, the technique reviewed in the previous courses is quite laborious and it requires much time.
There were several reasons, which motivated me to prepare this course: firstly, a large number of orders for such corsets and secondly, the unwillingness of the clients to adequately pay for the extra laborious work of making the scalloped corset. Therefore, in this course I will teach you a simple, an easy and yet a fast technique to sew the corset with scalloped edges and at the same times a technique that helps to achieve the desired result.
The use of my technique will turn the sewing of such complex corset into the budget option, which will be beneficial for you and your client!
The proposed technique of making the corsets with scalloped edges is universal and the traditional materials are used for sewing. The method can be used in various combinations. The most important is to learn the principle of the technique and then you will not have any problem to alter it for a particular model.
For this model I will use the pattern and the sewing technique of four curve princess seams on the front and two princess seams on the back with the ordinary classic lacing.
The scalloped neckline of this model will be only on the corset front to save time: along the lower cut and along the neckline. Although, you can extend the scalloped lower cut to the corset back if needed. You can also make the corset back with the scalloped upper cut, but it is a special model and it is not a very convenient option, in my opinion.
Let me talk about the selection of the sewing method of the corset. This corset can be sewn both with the quilted cups or using the simplified technique. I would like to remind that quilted cup is suitable for a small or a medium bust. It is not reasonable to use the quilted cups for the ladies with a bigger bust as the quilted cups enlarge and lift the bust. It does not always look good! Therefore, for the clients with the fuller bust, I recommend the simplified corset sewing technique or the technique, which I propose in the series of the tutorials for the plus sized ladies.
The length of the corset can be various and it depends on the shape of the front scalloped lower cut. For example, the corset, which I will sew, has its front bottom corner almost reaching the hip line. Therefore, even at the sketch stage it is necessary to determine the length of the longest part of the corset. If in my case, the longest part of the corset reaches the hip line, then I should take all the measurements of the client to the hip line and also construct and alter the pattern of the corset to the hip line. And only then, on a mock-up or during the first dress-fitting, you can draw beautiful scalloped edges in accordance with the design.
A few words about the shape of the upper cut of the corset. There are no restrictions and the main idea is to choose the right corset's pattern. I suggest two types of patterns in the attachment to this course: the heart-shaped neck pattern or the V-neck pattern and the boat neck pattern. It is very important to determine the shape of the pattern and the neckline before the start of work, because the sewing method of the corsets with scalloped cuts differs from the sewing method of the standard corsets. In this case, at first the closed corset is sewn, which looks very unusual, and its actual ready-made appearance will show up in the course of the further work, when the design of those scalloped cuts begins. Therefore, I would like to emphasize once again the importance of the correct corset pattern choice depending on the neckline shape chosen. If you have outlined the corset neckline in the form of falling corners, then you should select the heart-shaped neck pattern. If the shape of the neckline of the future corset resembles a boat, then the boat neck pattern should be used. This is a very important point! A very common mistake of seamstresses is that, for example, they chose the boat neck pattern and when they sew the base, they begin to make the V- neckline. In this case there will be no close fitting in the top of the corset and the entire upper part of the corset will not be tight to the body. The corset is ruined and it has to be reshaped and sewed anew.
In this course I will use the pattern for the boat neckline corset.
Only traditional materials are used for this corset. As I chose the budget option, I would use the fabric leftovers.
I use the regular white stretch satin, which stretches in along lengthwise grain only. I will cut on the crosswise grain and the waistline goes along the raw edge of lengthwise grain.
I will use the thick patterned fabric leftovers for the corset face.
I will need the Rigilene bones of two types – wide bones of 1.2 cm and narrow bones of 0.8 cm. If the corset is sewn according to the quilted cups technique, I would slightly gather the narrow bones.
To make the cup hard and to keep its shape we need a small amount of thick fusible fabric. I use the fusible fabric produced by Hansel.
I will need thin fusible batiste to duplicate the fabric.
I will also use the leftovers of lace and guipure for decoration.
All the scalloped corset cuts I will cover with one or even two rows of rhinestones. I will use any rhinestones of any producer with size of SS16 or SS20. The only requirement to rhinestones is to have a flat base.
It is compulsory to have a very sharp pair of scissors.
Then you need to print out the standard pattern of the corset, which is attached to the course. The pattern consists of 10 sheets of A4 format and all files are in pdf format. The sheets can be printed out at any printer with the printer parameter set at “actual size”. The printed paper sheets will be glued together to make paper patterns of the corset, which will be adjusted later to reflect the parameters of the client.
I strongly recommend sewing a mock-up of our corset to determine the sizes of the standard pattern. You need to glue the pattern pieces together, cut them out of any cotton fabric and stitch the vertical cuts. Then you can put the mock-up on the dress-form. All pieces of the corset should be tight and have only vertical seams. I fill voids with padding polyester and foam to make it tight.
Please check the photos to see how the mock-up should look on the dress-form (this is the mock-up from the previous course).
Then you can take all main measurements for the corset, or in other words you need to determine the measurements of the standard patterns. These measurements are added to the table and compared with the measurements of the client and then re-calculation and alteration of the standard pattern are made and as a result we will have a new pattern of the corset with the measurements of our particular client.
Finally, I want to give you some advice: do not try to measure carefully the standard pattern, do not even waste your time. Sew the mock-up, take all necessary measurements, calculate the new pattern and sew the sample. It will clearly illustrate if there are any mistakes. There will be mistakes at the beginning and it is absolutely normal! You will not waste an expensive fabric and your time, but on the contrary you will gain invaluable tailoring experience using the new pattern!