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Garments you can make using this technology:

The popularity of this model among brides is because it reflects almost all following fashion trends:

  • a delicate elastic top with embroidery;
  • a built-in bra or cut-off cups;
  • a tender silhouette of a lace dress;
  • an open back and a short lacing on air loops;
  • and a full detachable skirt with a train.

This course contains a lot of couture techniques. I will show you the following:

  • how to seamlessly cover the corset with lace;
  • how to join a lace folded skirt to a dress, so that you don’t have any extra thickness and the transition from a corset to a dress is smooth and invisible;
  • how to sew an elastic top between a face and a lining;
  • how to make a lining with built-in cups.

The special feature of the course is tambour (luneville) sequin embroidery.

The process of cutting, sewing and decoration of a garment from scratch to final operations is described and illustrated in detail.
All necessary patterns and bonuses (for printing) are attached as follows:

  • 2 tables for AUTOMATIC pattern adjustments calculation for all patterns of this course;
  • patterns of a corset face and a corset lining;
  • patterns of decorative details.

The aim of the course is my great desire to teach the techniques of making such dresses. All the techniques can be used in various combinations, so that you can sew different models of evening, cocktail, prom and wedding dresses.

The course is useful both to beginners as well as to experienced professionals in making wedding and evening dresses. It can be handy for dressmaking atelier personnel as a professional development training.

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 6h 45m

Tutorial 1. Preparation of patterns.

You have received files with patterns and tables with the course. First of all, print them with printer set at actual size parameter and arrange them into stacks. In the photo the stack with the patterns for the face of the corset is on the left and the patterns of the lining is on the right.

Notes on differences between face patterns and lining patterns.

The lining pattern of the corset has separate cut-off cups and there are no seam allowances for the upper edge of all pieces. In other words the lining is an analog of a transparent corset with cut-off cups, but it has seam allowances at the bottom of the pieces.

A pattern for the corset front is an ordinary opaque corset pattern with all relevant seam allowances on the upper edge and the bottom of the pieces. I developed a hybrid of transparent-opaque corset for this dress design.

To combine the pattern pieces you just need to glue together the first two sheets of the corset lining pattern. Remember not to pay attention to non-colored technical areas along the edges of the sheets when combining sheets.

Let us look at the tables of automatic calculation. It's very easy to work with them: you enter your client's measurements into the respective column and print out the table with the ready calculation.

I strongly recommend making a simple mock-up of any cotton or non-woven fabric to test a new pattern.  

For this purpose it is convenient to use non-woven fabric, where the printed basic pattern can be easily traced.

Put a mock-up on a dress-form and take all key measurements. It will help you to define the size of the standard pattern.

As an option, you can measure the key lines without seam allowances in the print-offs of corset pieces for precise calculation of standard pattern measurements.

Next compare the determined values with the measurements of the standard pattern, indicated in the table.

There are 2 tables with examples in the course.

The first table indicates the measurements of my client.

However, the pattern adjustment for my model is minimal, and it does not illustrate the peculiarities for adjustments of a standard pattern.

Thus, I used the second table, where I specified the measurements of an imaginary client to demonstrate the calculation when the measurements differ significantly from the measurements of a standard pattern.  I selected an example when a bust circumference of a client is 100 cm.

Certainly, it is rather dangerous to use a pattern of a transparent corset with cut-off cups for such bust circumference. As the face will be an opaque corset it allows us to go beyond the traditions and use this pattern.

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Wedding Dress with Built-in Corset

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