Tutorial 1. Required Materials and Measurements. Pattern Calculation.
I will use the following materials for my full skirt with elastic waistband:
- Lining fabric. You can use plain lining fabric for a low-budget version or crepe-back satin for a more expensive version.
- Veiling. Since it is the main material, it must be chosen very carefully. I use medium-density veiling sold per roll in online stores. It helps me cut down the costs of production.
- Petticoat. I will use a plain inexpensive petticoat with seven hoops. You can use a petticoat with five hoops: it won’t make a big difference. The distance between the top edge and the top hoop is usually the same regardless of the amount of hoops.
I will sew the skirt to a bodice which was made using the technique for sewing non-see-through (opaque) corsets and the patterns from the corresponding books by the Corset Academy. I have intentionally made the task harder by choosing a bodice with a V-shaped bottom edge.
You need to know the following measurements to calculate and cut the skirt (I took them off the bodice put on the dress-form):
- Waist Circumference. This measurement is taken at the supposed level of the top edge of the skirt. It is usually 4cm below the waistline. I got 77cm.
- Skirt Length. I will use the standard length of 120cm.
- Centre Waist to Bottom Sharp Point. It is 7cm in my case.
The process of cutting an elastic waistband skirt is very simple and you are already familiar with it.
The base is a half-circle skirt cut from the lining fabric.
The main layers are cut from the veiling.
The half-circle skirt is calculated based on the following formula:
πR = Waist Circumference.
Let us find the radius of the skirt (R):
πR = 77cm
R = 25cm
You can cut a half-circle skirt knowing the radius and the length.
I will make the radius a little bigger just in case:
R = 26cm
The lining skirt is normally made 10-20cm shorter than the main veiling skirt.
My veiling fabric is wide enough (150cm) to fit everything, even with a skirt length of 120cm and a radius of 26cm.
When cutting the lining, I will make it 15cm shorter than the main skirt.
120cm – 15cm = 105cm
I will cut the skirt right on the table using the method described in the previous books by the Corset Academy, i.e. by folding the fabric in a triangle.
I will also account for the fact that the skirt needs to be sewn to a bodice with a V-shaped bottom edge the bottom point of which reaches 7cm below the waistline.