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Garments you can make using this technology:


  • Advanced curves and decorative inserts.
  • Integral sleeves.
  • Rules of complex styling and shaping.
  • 2 fabric colors and 4 different material types used: chiffon, lace, stretch-satin and Armani fabric.
  • In this course we not only will alter the pattern but also will create an unique pattern for a complex dress for a particular client’s size.

Skills you gain:

  • Advanced pattern drafting.
  • The right order of combining different parts of the dress.
  • Sewing together curved reliefs of “difficult” materials (3 layers: basis, chiffon and lace).
  • The right boning placement for complex curved garment.
  • Fast chiffon train cutting method.
  • Quilting cup in the dress with straps.
  • Cutting thin yet very comfortable lace sleeve.
  • Calculation and alteration of the pattern for a particular client’s size.

Where to use:

  • Sewing wedding and evening dresses.

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 8h 48m

Tutorial 10. Sewing a Mock-Up after the New Pattern.

I have cut mock-up pieces based on the newly adjusted patterns and transferred the major circumference lines and the control points for aligning the curved seams.

Instead of cutting the central pieces with a fold line, I cut them as two halves for the mock-up. It is easier to align the edges of the pieces this way.

Next, I assemble the mock-up, put it on the dress-form, and check whether the pieces cut after the newly adjusted patterns fit together well enough. This stage is important because it allows you to double-check everything and develop a proper plan of actions before cutting expensive quality fabric.

I have only assembled a half of the mock-up because my dress-form fully imitates my client's body thanks to the first mock-up. If the proportions of your dress-form are different from your client's body proportions, then you should sew a full mock-up, put it on, and stuff all hollows with padding polyester.

I am quite happy with the result! It is exactly what I wanted to achieve: the princess seams look graceful, the modelling lines are exactly the way I drew them, the control points for aligning the curved edges meet correctly and so do the horizontal circumference lines, and the separate side element passes from the back onto the front of the dress very smoothly.

The experience of sewing a mock-up really helps when you start working with the actual expensive fabric because you already know how to join the pieces and have a good understanding of the process.

The flare on the skirt looks really beautiful and the train sewn into the central seam at the back of the skirt will only emphasize the effect.

The pattern has been trued and now I can print it out, cut the pieces, and begin with the actual sewing process!

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Wedding Dress with Built-in Corset

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