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“Premium Dress” is a detailed guide to the sewing techniques employed in the making of a fantastic dress inspired by a famous Lebanese fashion designer – Krikor Jabotian.

Peculiar features of this corset dress:

  • The pattern was purposely designed to keep the front and the back of the skirt whole instead of splitting them up by vertical princess seams.
  • An additional princess seam on the front half of the lining ensures maximum tight fit in the waist.
  • The neckline edge is treated in a new special technique.
  • The dress features concealed side seams.
  • The dress is made from three layers: lining, background fabric, and sequin overlay fabric.
  • There is a blind zipper and concealed inner lacing.
  • Ruffles are sewn on the see-through skirt in accordance with a complicated layout scheme.
  • There is a 3D decorative ruffle piece on the shoulder of the dress.
  • The bodice is draped.
  • The dress is complemented with a decorative buckle and matching hair clips in the form of plastic suede flowers.

This course will teach you:

  • How to customize the size of a corset dress pattern for your client.
  • How to cut sequin fabric with minimum princess seams and achieve a tight fit in the waist.
  • In what order to join the pieces to achieve the best results.
  • How to sew curved princess seams neatly on “complicated” fabric (sequin fabric).
  • How to treat necklines (a new technique).
  • How to sew a lining worthy of a premium class garment.
  • How to sew concealed lacing panels into the dress.
  • How to sew a skirt from delicate mesh fabric and decorate it with a generous amount of ruffles in two different colors.
  • How to cut ruffles from thin fabric.
  • How to reinforce see-through mesh fabric for sewing ruffles on it.
  • How to create additional accessories to complement the dress (a belt brooch and matching hair clips).
  • How to make and color flowers from plastic suede.
  • How to make your own flower and petal moulds for working with plastic suede.

You will find enclosed:

  • Ready pattern of a bell-shaped slightly flared dress with a train sewn into the central back seam.
  • Ready pattern of the top see-through skirt with a layout scheme for sewing on ruffles.
  • Flower templates for plastic suede accessories.
  • Swirl template for cutting decorative shoulder ruffles.
  • Corset pattern, pattern adjustment calculations table, and ruffle layout scheme.

The purpose of this course is to help you master all technical know-how required for sewing the most sophisticated designer dresses!

The course will be helpful not only to beginners but also to those experienced in sewing. It is also suitable as a means of professional improvement for staff of sewing ateliers.

I would also like to emphasize that the dress from this course is merely a foundation for your own masterpieces. Let your creative spirit run free!

 

Authors: 

Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Julia Trofimova

 

Total length: 12h 57m

Tutorial 11. Assembling the Lacing Panels.

I need to prepare the concealed lacing panels before sewing down the back princess seams. I mark the pieces in order not to confuse the face with the lining and the right half with the left half: the arrow marks the top of the piece and the crosses mark symmetrical lining pieces.

First of all, I need to sew bones in the lacing area of the lining pieces to make them strong enough to cope with the tension in the waist.

I adjust the shape of the pieces based on the shape of the iron-on batiste and make a row of stay-stitches along three sides of either piece: the top, the central raw edge, and the bottom.

And then I start sewing on Rigilene bones. First, I will sew on a narrow bone stepping 1mm from the vertical row of stay-stitches and 2-3mm from the horizontal stay-stitches, then I will add a wide bone (the place for installing grommets), and then another narrow bone.

The bones are sewn in place.  If you want to use only narrow bones, then position the middle bone about 0.5cm from the first and the third one.

I put together the face and the lining pieces and align their edges and notches.


I sew the face to the lining following the stay-stitches. Please make sure to stitch from one to the other edge of the piece, always make a bar tack at the intersection of the stay-stitches, and then continue with a new row of stitches.

I trim the seam allowances along the perimeter of the piece down to about 0.5cm and trim the corners at an angle.

I turn out the piece. It is easy to turn out the corners using a wooden knitting needle, a regular large needle, or even just a pin. But don't expect to achieve perfectly sharp corners on corset garments with duplicated pieces and bones: they will always be somewhat round.

I roll the seam toward the underside and secure it with pins.

I make additional joining seams between the bones, i.e. rows of decorative stitches. These seams will secure the layers of fabric together and form an area for setting in grommets.

I make a row of joining stitches along the other edge of the pieces.


A finished lacing panel looks like this. The second lacing panel is made just the same way.

Both lacing panels are ready now. I have already pressed them and now I need to mark and install grommets because it will be a lot harder to do this after sewing the panels in place.

I mark an area for installing grommets. The finished lacing panel is 22.6cm long. I will step 0.8cm from the top and the bottom edge to install the outermost grommets. In this case, the intervals between the remaining grommets will be 3cm.

I punch holes as marked.

I put both lacing panels together face to face and mark points on the second one through the holes punched in the first one.  This makes the holes on both lacing panels perfectly symmetrical.

I punch holes in the second lacing bars.

I insert grommets from the face side of the panel and washers from the other side and set them. 

The lacing panels now have grommets in them.

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