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Tutorial 11. Assembling the Lacing Panels.

Tutorial 11. Assembling the Lacing Panels.

I need to prepare the concealed lacing panels before sewing down the back princess seams. I mark the pieces in order not to confuse the face with the lining and the right half with the left half: the arrow marks the top of the piece and the crosses mark symmetrical lining pieces.

First of all, I need to sew bones in the lacing area of the lining pieces to make them strong enough to cope with the tension in the waist.

I adjust the shape of the pieces based on the shape of the iron-on batiste and make a row of stay-stitches along three sides of either piece: the top, the central raw edge, and the bottom.

And then I start sewing on Rigilene bones. First, I will sew on a narrow bone stepping 1mm from the vertical row of stay-stitches and 2-3mm from the horizontal stay-stitches, then I will add a wide bone (the place for installing grommets), and then another narrow bone.

The bones are sewn in place.  If you want to use only narrow bones, then position the middle bone about 0.5cm from the first and the third one.

I put together the face and the lining pieces and align their edges and notches.

I sew the face to the lining following the stay-stitches. Please make sure to stitch from one to the other edge of the piece, always make a bar tack at the intersection of the stay-stitches, and then continue with a new row of stitches.

I trim the seam allowances along the perimeter of the piece down to about 0.5cm and trim the corners at an angle.

I turn out the piece. It is easy to turn out the corners using a wooden knitting needle, a regular large needle, or even just a pin. But don't expect to achieve perfectly sharp corners on corset garments with duplicated pieces and bones: they will always be somewhat round.

I roll the seam toward the underside and secure it with pins.

I make additional joining seams between the bones, i.e. rows of decorative stitches. These seams will secure the layers of fabric together and form an area for setting in grommets.

I make a row of joining stitches along the other edge of the pieces.

A finished lacing panel looks like this. The second lacing panel is made just the same way.

Both lacing panels are ready now. I have already pressed them and now I need to mark and install grommets because it will be a lot harder to do this after sewing the panels in place.

I mark an area for installing grommets. The finished lacing panel is 22.6cm long. I will step 0.8cm from the top and the bottom edge to install the outermost grommets. In this case, the intervals between the remaining grommets will be 3cm.

I punch holes as marked.

I put both lacing panels together face to face and mark points on the second one through the holes punched in the first one.  This makes the holes on both lacing panels perfectly symmetrical.

I punch holes in the second lacing bars.

I insert grommets from the face side of the panel and washers from the other side and set them. 

The lacing panels now have grommets in them.

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