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Garments you can make using this technology:

Features:

  • Quilted corset cups;
  • Fluffy tulle skirt attached to a corset;
  • Transforming skirt into a casual look;
  • Hanging loops for the lacing

Skills you gain:

  • You will find the answer to a frequently asked question: ‘How to achieve good fitting of neckline in the middle of the bust?’ I have dedicated several tutorials on working with the lining and face of the corset to this issue.
  • How to make hanging loops for the lacing.
  • How to attach a bouffant tulle skirt to a corset.
  • How to arrange the layers of a tulle skirt.
  • How to sew a lightweight chiffon belt (under the bust).
  • How to make transformable skirt.

Where to use:

  • Widely used technology for creating wedding (and evening) dresses, and also for youth fashion corsets.

 

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 4h 31m

Tutorial 11. Finishing the Bottom of the Corset.

So I press open the adjusted curves:

It is necessary to use the cup pressing mould here. I keep shaping the cups by a circular motion of the press-iron until they look nice and round. Then I turn the garment out and press the face side.

The corset already looks much more different than before:

 I secure the bottom of the corset completely with pins after pressing the corset:

I pull on the fabric, spread the whole corset and pin together the facing and the lining. I pull the facing a little harder so that it slightly surpasses the length of the lining fabric. The facing is going to be about 1cm longer because of the horizontal dart in the centre of the garment. What concerns the back piece and the sides, I can simply judge by the way the garment looks. The important thing is to have the face fabric slightly more pulled on. I secure the centre of the back with pins as well.

And now I start joining the lining with the facing along the cut edges I have just pinned together:


I stitch at a presser foot distance from the edge. I basically follow the inner seam that attaches the bone.

Then I remove the pins and even out the bottom of the corset by trimming all extra face fabric.

And now I need to give the bottom of the corset a pencil-edge finish.

I have torn off a 4cm wide strap of fabric for this purpose. I place this strap against the bottom edge of the corset letting its end fly off (it will be used for finishing the corner of the edge).

I stitch on this strap along the corset bottom at a 0.7-1cm distance from the edge:


Since the thread of my fabric is elastic, the strap slightly stretches lengthwise. I pull it on while sewing and it acquires the properties of a bias tape thanks to its elasticity. This gives the edge a very even finish and there is no need of using additional bias tapes and trying to match their colours.

I fold it and finish the pencil-edge:


This is how neat the bottom of the corset looks now:


As I have mentioned at the very beginning, this corset could be a separate garment.

And now I need to strengthen its lacing area.

I cut off two wide Rigilene bones for this purpose. They should be 1cm shorter than the length of the back:


I tape over the ends of these bones with some masking tape and wrap the bones in fabric.

I use a 3.5-3.7cm wide strap of the main fabric for wrapping the bones.

I stitch along one side at a 1mm distance from the edge, and then I leave a small section of fabric unstitched, place the second bone after it and fold the unstitched section into a kind of a loop pulling the fabric slightly on to me as I do it. I turn the fabric down from the other side of the bone and stitch along the other side.

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