Tutorial 13. Pattern with Two Front Princess Seams.
We have studied three corset patterns with different necklines which had one common feature: their front piece was made of three parts, i.e. there were two bust princess seams.
To tell you the truth, corsets with the front made of only three parts are the most simplified and the most uncomfortable type.
Although they are easy to sew, it is quite hard to achieve a perfect fit to the body.
Such patterns are mainly used in the making of dresses without waistline seams. But even in that case, I would prefer to use a pattern of a corset front with four princess seams to achieve a better fit.
A similar case is described in “Premium Dress” by the Corset Academy.
Nevertheless, let us talk about how and when we can use a pattern with two bust princess seams.
The first possible case is when there are no strict requirements to the fit of the garment.
This means sewing for a young girl with a perfect figure and full firm breasts. I am talking about a classic corset with a boat neck, a relatively high V-neck, or a modest sweetheart neck.
The pattern with two bust princess seams is appropriate in cases like this.
The next case is just the opposite.
The pattern with two bust princess seams is great for plump women with full breasts. And I mean really big sizes, XXL and up.
A corset with a three-part front will more often than not produce a more desirable effect on a figure like this than a corset with a five-part front.
Patterns with two bust princess seams are used in “Plus-Size Dress with a Strap” and “Plus-Size Dress with Hidden Lacing” by the Corset Academy.
The same pattern is unlikely to work for a skinny girl with small breasts because it will be hard to achieve a good fit in the chest.
You will get faced with problems in the armscye areas because the under-bust dart opening is not wide enough to pull the corset closer to the chest and ensure a snug fit in the armscyes.
You will need another vertical dart, another vertical princess seam in the armscye area, but unfortunately it is not there.
You will also find it impossible to achieve a good fit along the sides.
The extreme hourglass silhouette is not typical for plump women: you don’t need to make it that tight in the waist so two bust princess seams are enough!
The trouble zone of a plump figure is usually the stomach. It is impossible to make it perfectly flat.
And that is why splitting the front of the corset in many parts does not make sense for a plump figure.
I want to show you one trick which can radically improve the fit of a corset made for a plump woman with a pronounced stomach starting right from under the bust which is impossible to flatten. Such women often have not so full breasts although the chest is quite broad.
If you have accepted an order from a client of this body type, then it is your duty to achieve as good fit as possible. It is hard to fight with the stomach! Let me tell you what you can do. I always emphasize that you must not make any changes to the front princess seams above waistline level but this case is an exception.
I find a point on the bust princess seam in about the middle between the bust line and the under-bust line and draw a straight line down to the intersection with the waistline. In other words, I straighten this part of the bust princess seam both on the centre front piece, as well as on the side front pieces.
Here is what will happen if you don’t do this: the part of the bust princess seam which I suggest you should straighten will push into the stomach badly, but instead of flattening the stomach it will pull the corset away from the body.
This, in its turn, will cause the whole décolleté area to get pulled away and the breasts will sink down.
The corset will refuse to fit well: it will bulge because the stomach will not let it settle correctly.
But when you straighten that part of the princess seam, the corset will hug the stomach tightly. And it will not look that big because the side seams will still give the woman’s body a mild hourglass silhouette. You will also make the front of the corset larger in a proportionate way with regard to her clothes size. By adjusting the pattern this way, you will give the garment the right size and it will cling to the body properly. Garment balance will be preserved thanks to the good fit at the top of the bust princess seam.
This is how a small trick can help you achieve a good fit! Of course, you can re-draw the specified part of the princess seam as a curved line and not a straight line if your client’s stomach is not too pronounced.
Summing up the above-said: the pattern of a corset with four front princess seams is designed to ensure as good fit as possible along the bust line.
And this is why it is better suited for young women who wear small clothes sizes.
The pattern of a corset with two bust princess seams is better suited for simplified corsets and for plump girls.
It was no accident that I chose a corset with four front princess seams for my “Corset in Just 1 Day.”
And I offer you a pattern with two bust princess seams in “Plus-Size Dress with a Strap.”
If you meet a full-bodied woman with a very well-proportioned figure, then you can of course make a corset with four front princess seams.
But if it is impossible to bring your client’s figure to the standards with the help of a corset, then I highly recommend you should opt for the pattern with two bust princess seams and use my simple trick.