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Garments you can make using this technology:

Features:

  • Sewing technique of a light cocktail dress;
  • Perfect for beginners and for advanced sewers.

Skills you gain:

  • Drafting and altering the sewing pattern;
  • Sewing custom made cocktail dress;
  • Decorating the dress with drapery.

Where to use:

  • The technique in this course is perfect for making not only cocktail and evening dresses, but wedding dresses as well;
  • If you are a beginner in corset making – this is the perfect course to begin with! Understanding this technique will open the world of professional dressmaking before you!

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 3h 46m

Tutorial 19. Preparing to Finish the Top of the Back.

Let us continue working on the back of the dress.

I have installed the zipper and sewn down the princess seams and the central seam down to the level of the slit.

I have also pressed all seams open.

I tried to press the seam allowances of the slit but it didn't look even enough so I decided to postpone it until later.

I have sewn down the vertical princess seams of the lining of the back and pressed them open just the same way.

I leave the central seam of the lining open for now and put it aside.

There will be decorative stripes at the back of the dress similar to those at the front. They will stop at about the waistline level.

It's important to remember that the stripes at the front of the dress are supposed to gradually blend into the stripes at the back after we join the two halves of the dress!

I put together the front and the back of the dress, align the notches of their seam allowances, and make notches on the back to mark the level where each decorative stripe ends at the front of the dress.

I do the same from the opposite edge.

And then I remove the front half of the dress and return to the back.

I place a stripe onto the back. It was left from the stripes sewn onto the front of the dress.

I align the edge of the stripe with the notch that marks the edge of the corresponding stripe at the front.

And I make a notch to mark the level where the next stripe is supposed to begin.

The next stripe is rather wide. I have cut it out the same way I cut out the narrow stripes. It will cover the back up to the very top. Generally speaking, these are purely decorative elements. They perform no other function. I simply felt like decorating the back of the dress, at least in the area above the waistline.

I put the stripe in its supposed place.

You can pin the stripes together but using a fusible web will make it a lot more precise.

I fuse a strap of web onto the narrow stripe.

I remove the paper backing from the web.

And I put the wide stripe over it and fuse it on.

The same thing needs to be done for the other half of the back.

I put a narrow stripe in place according to the notches and make a notch to mark the edge of the wide stripe.

The stripes on the right and left halves of the back should be perfectly symmetric.

I fuse vertical straps of web onto the face of the decorative stripes.

Then I fold the edge with the fusible web and secure it by pressing.

The result is two semi-finished pieces:

I spread the back of the dress and even out any irregularities. You should push the air out of any hollows formed by the dart. Simply push it toward the bottom. I secure it with pins.

I put the semi-finished pieces onto the back from either side of the zipper, as marked by the notches.

And then I remove the paper backing from the web.

And I fuse the stripes onto the back.

I stamp it with a ruler and wait for it to cool down.


The stripes at the back of the dress are perfectly symmetric!

Now I can turn them back and sew them on. You may as well slightly step from the fold line because the zipper teeth won't let you stitch at the very edge. I trim the stripes at the sides to repeat the shape of the back.

Dress sewing patterns in PDF format.

To print the sewing patterns open the file, press “print” and choose “PRINT IN ACTUAL SIZE”. Then connect the part the way it is shown in the course.

Sewing pattern of the cocktail dress

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