Tutorial 2. Calculation of the pattern adjustments.

Now I re-calculate the standard pattern attached to this course using measurements of the client.

When the mock-up of the corset based on the standard pattern is sewn, I put it on the dress-form and measure. I take all necessary measurements of the mock-up and enter them into the column 2 of the Pattern table.

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 Bust Circumference 86 86 Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 Waist Circumference 68 66 Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist) 90 90 Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist) 98 90 Side Length 19 19 Blade height back 20 18 Bust Center 19 19 Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9

The following measurements are needed for construction of the client’s pattern:

- Bust Width Front,

- Under-Bust Width Front,

- Bust Circumference,

- Under-Bust Circumference,

-  Waist Circumference,

- Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist),

- Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist). This measurement is necessary, because the corner of the lower cut of the corset front is below the stomach line. If the corset is short and reaches the stomach line only, you will not need to have hip circumference measured.

- Side Length,

- Blade height back. This is an auxiliary measurement, which shows how high you can lift the back of your dress to make it as tight as possible, but at the same time to avoid skin overhang above the top of the dress near the shoulder blades.

- Bust Center.  Let me remind you that Bust Center is the distance between the future princess seams. This measurement is somewhat conditional in the hard corset construction: it does not show the real distance between the bust apex points, but it simply shows the position of the bust princess seams. You have to put the client in front of you and take this measurement as you want the princess seams to be. Visually, the small bust will be enlarged by widely spaced princess seams, and the large bust will be reduced by slightly narrowed princess seams.

- Clip. For this particular model I take only Clip toward Armscye and Clip toward Neckline. This measurement is always the most important and in I put it in the center of all calculations.  Although the situation is different with this model. As the upper cut of the corset front is finalized and cut out when the corset base is sewn or, in other words, in the process of tailoring, so this measurement will be counted for later when I draw and form the upper cut.  Now the clip has only informative function, so I placed it the last in the table of measurements.

I recorded all measurements of my client in the first column “Client” of the table.

I start the calculation from the position of the side seam on the client’s pattern with account for the alterations in Bust Center.

The position of the side seam is determined by two measurements: Bust Width Front and Under Bust Width Front.

Bust Width Front.  Client’s measurement is 46 m and the pattern shows 46 cm, thus the measurements coincide.

Therefore, there is no need to make alterations of the side seam in the bust line, so the seam on the pattern is on its place. I write a zero to the table (column 3, line 1).

Under Bust Width Front. The measurement of the client is 40 cm and the measurement on the pattern is 39 cm.

40 cm – 39 cm = 1 cm

I divide it in half between the two sides of the front. As the result, either side seam line of the front needs to be shifted 0.5cm outwards at the under bust line level to put the side seam in place on my client’s body. I write 0.5 cm to the table (column 3, line 2).

So, I have two basic calculation measurements that need to be analyzed. As a result of analysis I need to choose one figure, for which I need to shift the front side seam on the standard pattern either outwards or inwards.

Although, before choosing the constant figure of the side seam alteration along the entire height of corset, I analyze the general picture of measurements.  Learn to look with professional eyes on the client’s measurements and the measurements of your standard pattern and to compare them. At this stage you should already foresee what will happen in the future: what surprises and what difficulties in calculating this pattern are expected.

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 0 Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 +0.5 Bust Circumference 86 86 0 Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 +0.5 Waist Circumference 68 66 +0.5 Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist) 90 90 +0.5 Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist) 98 90 +0.5 Side Length 19 19 - Blade height back 20 18 - Bust Center 19 19 - Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9 -0.5; +1

Almost all measurements, except for Under Bust Circumference, are the same or very close. Side length is also the same.

Blade Height Back is shorter than the client’s measurement and it means that the shoulder blades of the client will not be tight against the upper cut of the corset, thus we can leave the standard pattern measurement. Bust Center is also the same. Regarding Clip measurement, I need to remove 0.5 cm from the bust center point to the armscye line and add 1 cm upwards from the bust center point along the curve.

The biggest complication in calculations is Under Bust Circumference. The difference between the measurements comprises 8 cm.

After analysis of the measurement, I go back to selection of one figure to which I will shift the side seam.  The measurements along the bust line coincide, so I record a zero in the table (column 3, line 3).

The difference of 8 cm of Under Bust Circumference needs to be distributed in the side seams and the curves. I will not do exception for the side seam and shift it outwards for 0.5 cm, at least (column 3, line 4).  The difference in Waist Circumference comprises 2 cm, so it is logical to add 0.5 cm to the side seam (column 3, line 5).

Therefore, the analysis of three measurements of circumferences showed that we need to shift the front side seam in two of the measurements.

Thus, I take the decision to add 0.5 cm to the front side seam along the whole height of corset. I write down 0.5 cm in the table (column 3, lines 6 and 7).

I start the calculation of the position of the back side seam.  Firstly, I make a preliminary calculation of the side seam and all calculations I record into the fourth column  “Back side” of the table.

I start the calculations. I check what happens if I take into account all measurements and calculations I have already had in the table.

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 0 - Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 +0.5 - Bust Circumference 86 86 0 0 Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 +0.5 +3.5 Waist Circumference 68 66 +0.5 +0.5 Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist) 90 90 +0.5 -0.5 Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist) 98 90 +0.5 +3.5 Side Length 19 19 - - Blade height back 20 18 - - Bust Center 19 19 - - Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9 -0.5; +1 -

The measurements Bust Width Front and Under Bust Width Front are not used for calculations of the back side seam. I write a dash in the table.

I start with the bust line and Bust Circumference. The client has 86 cm and the pattern shows 86 cm, so the measurements coincide. There are no changes in the front side seam, so I write a zero in the table.

I move to the under bust line and Under Bust circumference. The client has 78 cm and the pattern shows 70 cm.

But the pattern has been already widened by 1 cm on the front side seam (0.5 cm two times).

70 cm + 1 cm = 71 cm

78 cm – 71 cm = 7 cm

Thus, the pattern lacks 7 cm, which I divide into two back side pieces and I get that I need to shift the under bust line on the back outwards by 3.5 cm in order to bring the standard pattern to customer's measurement. This is with account for 0.5 cm, which I earlier added on each side of the front side pieces. I write down 3.5 cm in the table.

Now I make calculations along the waistline and Waist Circumference. The client has 68 cm and the pattern shows 66 cm.

But I have already widened the pattern in the front side seam by 1 cm (0.5 cm two times).

66 cm + 1 cm = 67 cm

68 cm – 67 cm = 1 cm.

Thus, the pattern lacks 1 cm, which I divide into two back side pieces, to the right and left, and I get that I need to shift outwards by 0.5 cm at the waist line on the back in order to bring the standard pattern to customer's measurement. This is with account for 0.5 cm added on each side of the front side pieces. I write down 0.5 cm in the table.

I move to the stomach line and Stomach Circumference. The client has 90 cm and the pattern shows 90 cm, so the measurements coincide.

But I have already added 0.5 cm twice to front side seam (in total 1 cm) in order to keep the beautiful shape of the front side seam.

90 cm + 1 cm = 91 cm

90 cm – 91 cm = -1 cm.

I divide it by two and as a result I need to remove 0.5 cm on the back pattern in the stomach line, which is 12 cm below the waist line. I write down the value of minus 0.5 cm into the table.

I get to the hip line and Hip Circumference, which is 19 cm below the waist line.  The client has 98 cm and the pattern shows 90 cm.

But I have already widened the pattern by 1 cm in the front side seam (in total 1 cm).

90 cm + 1 cm = 91 cm

98 cm – 91 cm = 7 cm.

Thus, the standard pattern lacks 7 cm, which I divide into two back side pieces, to the right and left, and I get that I need to add 3.5 cm at the hip line on the back in order to bring the standard pattern to customer's measurement. This is with account for 0.5 cm added on each side of the front side pieces. I write down a value of 3.5 cm in the table.

The following measurements are not used in calculations:  Side Length, Blade height back, Bust Center and Clip.

The side seam of the corset back appeared to be extremely zigzag-shaped.  Such results of calculations usually lead to a panic of the beginners. Do not be afraid, everything can be corrected!

Let us look and write down in the column 5 of the Adjusted back side the figures, which will lead to the beautiful back side seam. We distribute all alteration values in the curves of the back and the front to correspond to the pattern of the client.

After the analysis of the measurements along the side seam length, it is absolutely logical to assume by the analogy with the front side seam, that we need to widen the standard pattern by 0.5 cm in the under bust line, the waistline, the stomach line and the hip line. There will no changes required in the bust line. I will use the back and the front curves for further alteration of the standard pattern.

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 0 - - Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 +0.5 - - Bust Circumference 86 86 0 0 0 Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 +0.5 +3.5 +0.5 Waist Circumference 68 66 +0.5 +0.5 +0.5 Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist) 90 90 +0.5 -0.5 +0.5 Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist) 98 90 +0.5 +3.5 +0.5 Side Length 19 19 - - Blade height back 20 18 - - Bust Center 19 19 - - Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9 -0.5; +1 -

Now I start the adjustments of the back curves.

I need to check all circumference lines along the side seam whether the alterations are correct and I come to the client’s measurements. If there is a difference in the measurements, I will need to calculate the alteration value in the back curve in this particular circumference line.

I write down all adjustments of the curves to the column 6 of the table Back curve.

For calculation I use the figures of the Front side and the Adjusted back side (columns 3 and 5).

I start with the bust line and Bust Circumference. The client has 86 cm and the pattern shows 86 cm, so the measurements coincide. There are no changes in the side seams, so I do not need to alter anything.  I write a zero in the table (column 6, line 3).

I move to the under bust line and Under Bust Circumference. The client has 78 cm and the pattern shows 70 cm.

But I have already added 1 cm in the front side seam (0.5 cm two times) and also added 1 cm (0.5 cm two times)in the back side seam. I add these figures up and find the total sum of the pattern alteration:

1 cm + 1 cm = 2 cm

I add this figure to the figure of the pattern:

70 cm + 2 cm = 72 cm

78 cm – 72 cm = 6 cm

Therefore, I need to add 6 cm in the under bust line. I will add this figure to the back curves. There are two curves on the back and each has two cuts. Thus, there are four cuts on two back pieces, where I need to distribute necessary 6 cm.

6 cm ÷ 4 = 1.5 cm

Along each back curves in the under bust line I need to add 1.5 cm. I record 1.5 cm in the table (column 6, line 4).

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 0 - - - Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 +0.5 - - - Bust Circumference 86 86 0 0 0 - Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 +0.5 +3.5 +0.5 +1.5 Waist Circumference 68 66 +0.5 +0.5 +0.5 0 Stomach Circumference (12 cm below the waist) 90 90 +0.5 -0.5 +0.5 -0.5 Hip Circumference (19 cm below the waist) 98 90 +0.5 +3.5 +0.5 +1.5 Side Length 19 19 - - Blade height back 20 18 - - Bust Center 19 19 - - Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9 -0.5; +1 -

Now I move to the waistline and Waist Circumference. The client has 68 cm and the pattern shows 66 cm.

But I have already added 1 cm in the front side seam and 1 cm in the back side seam. I add these figures up and find the total sum of the pattern alteration:

1 cm + 1 cm = 2 cm

I add this figure to the figure of the pattern:

66 cm + 2 cm = 68 cm

Now I have the measurement similar to the measurement of the client.

Therefore, there is no need to make any alterations of the back curve in the waist line. I write a zero in the table (column 6, line 5).

The stomach line and Stomach Circumference. The client has 90 cm and the pattern shows 90 cm, the measurements coincide.

But I have added 1 cm in the front side seam and 1 cm in the back side seam. I add these figures up and find the total sum of the pattern alteration:

1 cm + 1 cm = 2 cm

I add this figure to the measurements of pattern:

90 cm + 2 cm = 92 cm

90 cm – 92 cm = -2 cm

Thus, I need to remove 2 cm in the stomach line. I will make these adjustments in the back curves.

-2 cm ÷ 4 = -0.5 cm

I need to remove 0.5 cm in the stomach line in the back curves. I record minus 0.5 cm in the table (column 6, line 6).

The hip line and Hip Circumference. The client has 98 cm and the pattern shows 90 cm.

But I have added 1 cm in the front side seam and 1 cm in the back side seam. I add these figures up and find the total sum of pattern alteration:

1 cm + 1 cm = 2 cm

I add this figure to the measurements of pattern:

90 cm + 2 cm = 92 cm

98 cm – 92 cm = 6 cm

Thus, I need to add 6 cm in the hip line on the pattern. I will make these alterations in the back curves.

6 cm ÷ 4 = 1.5 cm

I need to add 1.5 cm in each back curve at the hip line level. I record 1.5 cm in the table (column 6, line 7).

A small, yet very important digression.

All adjustments made in the calculation of the standard pattern in the side seam and in the curves must also be measured against the client’s figure. The main purpose of the corset is to re-shape the client's figure!

The figure of a client very often looks like a "column" - this is a figure with a very small difference between the waist and the hips. In this case your corset should re-shape the figure of the client, so her hips are enlarged and the waistline is narrowed, i.e. to make a beautiful bend.

The second type of a client's figure is a shaped figure with clearly protruding buttocks. In this case the corset is necessary to reshape the figure so that the buttocks bulge not so clearly, but this part of the body moves to the sides and filled the hips. In other words, in this case it is necessary to bring the figure of the client to a beautiful corset form.

When taking the measurements, it is necessary to check whether the client’s body can be re-shaped. If your client's body is supple, then there is no problem: you sew the corset the way you like and it will give the figure the beautiful corset shape. Although, if the client's body is not flexible to reshape, for example, the stomach is not pulled, the buttock does not tighten or the waist is not compressed, then it is necessary to use more artificial methods, allowing, at least visually, to give the figure the beautiful corset shape. It can be a decor, a different length of the corset and special styles both of a corset and a skirt. All this you will surely start to feel after gaining experience with the clients.

Let us return to the calculations. If you analyze the alterations in curves of the back, you can see that there is a very large difference of 1.5 cm between the bust line and the under bust line, and 2 cm between the stomach line and the hip line. In such short sections, it is almost impossible to make alterations even of 1.5 cm.

Therefore, I decided to use the front middle curves, which divide the side pieces of the corset in half, on the under bust line and the hip lines. But I do not touch the bust curves of the front!

In the bust line and the hip line of the front curves I will add to the pattern not 1.5 cm, but only half, 0.7 cm, and add the remaining 0.7 cm to the front middle curves.  Such decision will not lead to a change in the calculation of the client’s pattern. I write in the table the values of 0.7 cm (columns 6 and 7, lines 4 and 7). The calculation is completed!

 Client Pattern Front Side Back Side Adjusted Back side Front Curve Back curve Bust Width Front 46 46 0 - - - Under-Bust Width Front 40 39 +0.5 - - - Bust Circumference 86 86 0 0 0 Under-Bust Circumference 78 70 +0.5 +0.5 +0.7 +0.7 Waist Circumference 68 66 +0.5 +0.5 0 Stomach Circumference (12) 90 90 +0.5 +0.5 -0.5 Hip Circumference (19) 98 90 +0.5 +0.5 +0.7 +0.7 Side Length 19 19 - Blade height back 20 18 - - Bust Center 19 19 - - Clip 10; 10 10.5; 9 -0.5; +1 -