Tutorial 2. Layout Planning. Cutting.
I fuse the face fabric with some fine iron-on batiste.
My face fabric is a whole piece so I do everything the same way I did for the previous corset: I place the iron-on batiste over the fabric, even out cut edges and start pressing it. At first I secure the batiste on by stamping it down carefully with the iron. It is essential to use steam when pressing! Then I turn over the fused fabric and press it from the face side. I fold the fused fabric piece into half and put it aside.
I take the second piece of batiste used for the lining and start drawing the pieces of the corset pattern on it.
There are only very light alterations of the standard pattern in my case.
The client’s “bust middle” measurement is 0.8 inches smaller than that of the standard pattern. That is why I shift the central part of the front piece by 0.4 inches behind the batiste crease and outline it “as is”.
Apart from this I will need to lower the neckline because the “clip” measurement of the client is 1.2 inches smaller than that of the standard pattern.
Besides I also need to reduce the pattern by 0.5 inches at the back curve of the back piece going from the waistline to the bottom of the corset.
Just like previously I lay out the patterns matching their waistlines and notches.
It is also important to keep in mind that the waistline is perpendicular to the crease of the central piece of the front.
I outline all patterns marking their notches.
I have drawn a new back curve line on pieces 4 and 5 of the standard pattern reducing it by 0.5 inches. For that purpose I turn the piece around the waistline notch by 0.5 inches and draw a new line using the pattern side as a ruler, i.e. without changing the shape of the new pattern piece.
You can see the alterations of the back curve on pieces 4 and 5 in the picture:
Then I lower the top line of the corset by 1.2 inches on each pattern piece corresponding to the “clip” measurement and preserving the shape of the top line on the standard pattern:
Afterwards I put corresponding pieces of the lining material under the patterns drawn on the batiste.
I am going to put this piece under the central part of the front and secure it with pins from the batiste side:
I prepare a piece of the lining fabric for the medium front piece and place it underneath:
It should also be secured with pins. You continue this way up to the end.
This is what it looks like from the wrong side:
I use this method only when working with very expensive fabric or when I cannot pick fabric of a required color shade. It concerns both lining and face fabric.
I lay out the face fabric fused with batiste on the cutting table and put the lining pieces over it.
I even out cut edges and secure it with pins again.
I cut all patterns very carefully.
I make all necessary notches.
Upon completing the cutting process I only need to cut the cup pieces out of hard iron-on material.
I put the cut-out patterns onto the hard iron-on fabric and outline them up to the under-bust line. I am not using the standard pattern because all alterations have already been accounted for in the cut-out pieces. In this very case there were alterations along the top of the corset.
I start by working on the medium piece of the front:
I don’t need to be particularly precise when fusing the cup pieces, because I will cut the seam allowances along the top on the pieces made of the hard iron-on material.
I fold a piece of iron-on material with the drawn-on cup leaving enough space for placing the central piece of the front at the crease. This line should also be outlined up to the under-bust line.
And then I mark 0.6 inches above this under-bust line and draw a free-hand curve. I am going to cut the bottom line of the cup piece along this curve.
I secure it with pins and cut along the marked lines trimming seam allowances along the top:
Cup pieces cut out of hard iron-on fabric look like this:
During this tutorial I have completed cutting the pattern of the corset.
In the next tutorial I will tell you how to correctly fuse corset pieces if your iron-on material and main fabric have been cut separately.