Tutorial 2. Printing Out Patterns. Pattern Calculation.
Now I can start working on our new dress:
The photo above demonstrates the dress we are going to make during this course. I will sew, provide necessary comments and illustrate the whole process with pictures and all you have to do is repeat after me.
The dress consists of a corset, a full tulle skirt and a detachable chiffon skirt with stumpwork and a wide draped belt.
Choosing the right model was a serious and responsible task for me because bright fancy dresses often get stowed away into the wardrobe after being worn just once and it is hard to find another suitable festive occasion for putting these fabulous garments on.
And so I came up with the idea of making this dress transformable!
Firstly, you could wear its pretty chiffon skirt with top tanks of matching colors: black, blue, red, white, etc...
Secondly, you could swap the fancy multi-colored skirt for any other skirt of a different style and colour or with a different belt. And the dress would look absolutely new. You could also use some other type of corset decoration or an elegant accessory: belt buckle, brooch, fabric flower, etc…
And finally, if you rip off the tulle skirt from the corset, the corset will turn into an individual garment that can be worn with jeans or trousers.
In short, this dress can live a long and happy life!
Printing Out Patterns.
So, you have extracted the enclosed archive into a separate folder. It contains the file with the book and a folder with patterns that you can open with a double click.
You need to open the files one-at-a-time in order to print out the patterns. All files open with a double click on the icon.
I double click the icon ‘1-2а’ and open the first pattern:
To print out this pattern, you should click (just once) on the ‘Print’ icon (marked with the red arrow).
When I click this icon, the printing menu comes up:
You should select the printer that is currently connected to your computer in the Printer drop-down list marked with the red arrow:
Now you need to select ‘Document’ in the Comments & Forms drop-down list marked with the purple arrow.
And next you need to specify all necessary printing properties.
The menu with your printer’s properties opens when you click the Properties button marked with the blue arrow (see above):
You should tick Borderless Printing, select the A4 printer paper size and tick the Portrait orientation (green arrows).
It is necessary to press ‘OK’ afterwards!
This will return you to the printing menu. You should check all settings carefully one more time and then press the Print button.
Now your printer should start printing:
Please take a ruler and measure the size of the squares after printing out the first sheet. Each blue square should be 1 x 1cm and each red one – 0.5 x 0.5cm. Just measure 10 squares in a row, you should get 10cm. If the result is different, you must have made a mistake in the properties. You need to achieve perfect matching!
You should repeat the same procedure for printing out the second, third and further patterns. The corset consists of 5 pieces: 3 front pieces and 2 back ones. Only the first and the second pattern sheets need to be merged together. There is a special merging line for this purpose:
The other sheets should be simply printed out:
So, you have printed and cut out all pattern pieces now!
To customize the pattern, I use a table with measurements taken off my client, Kate, and the initial pattern measurements (Table 1):
|Kate||Pattern||Front||Back||Adjusted Back||Back Curve|
|Clip||9 6 6||10.5 9 8||-1.5 3 2|
All calculated values are written down in red.
Right now I want to determine the location of the front side seam.
The location of the side seam is determined by two measurements: “bust front” and “under-bust front”.
This measurement equals 46cm on the pattern and 46cm on Kate as well.
It is obvious that we don’t need to shift the side seam here.
I write “0” into the table (column 4, line 2).
It is 39cm on the pattern and 37cm according to Kate’s measurements.
(37cm – 39cm) ÷ 2 = -1cm
I write this value into the table (column 4, line 3).
This means I will need to make the pattern smaller because its original size is 2cm larger than Kate’s. I need to remove 1cm from each side seam of the front.
However I am going to adjust down the whole pattern by 1cm to preserve the beautiful side curve of the corset thereby reducing all circumferences (bust, under-bust, waistline, stomach) by 2cm.
I write the -1cm value into lines 4, 5, 6 and 7 of column 4.
Let me now calculate how much I need to remove from the clip measurement.
To the scye:
Since 10.5cm on the pattern correspond to 9cm of the client’s measurement, I do the following:
9cm – 10.5cm = -1.5cm
Along the curve line:
It is 9cm on the pattern and the client’s measurement shows 6cm, thus:
6cm – 9cm = -3cm
To the neckline:
8cm on the pattern correspond to the client’s measurement of 6cm, thus:
6cm – 8cm = -2cm
I write these values into the table (column 4, line 8).
The values coincide so I write down “0” into the table (column 4, line 9).
It is 19cm on the pattern and 18cm on Kate which means the length of the side seam should be adjusted down by:
18cm – 19cm = -1cm
I write it down into the table just like before (column 4, line 10).
Now I start calculating adjustments for the side seam of the back.
Of course, there are no “bust front” or “under-bust front” measurements now.
Our first measurement is “bust circumference”.
It is 86cm on the pattern and Kate’s measurement is 85cm.
We need to remember about the adjustment along the front side seam (-1cm).
This value then equals a total of 2cm for two pattern halves.
86cm – 2cm = 84cm
(85cm – 84cm) ÷ 2 = +0.5cm
This means I should add 0.5cm along each side seam of the back at the level of the bust.
I write this value into the table (column 5, line 4).
It is 72cm on the pattern that correspond to Kate’s 74cm.
I perform the same kind of a calculation:
72cm – 2cm = 70cm
(74cm – 70cm) ÷ 2 = +2cm
So I need to add 2cm along each side seam of the back at the under-bust level.
I write the value into the table (column 5, line 5).
It is 66cm on the pattern and 64cm on Kate.
Let me calculate:
66cm – 2cm = 64cm
(64cm – 64cm) ÷ 2 = 0cm
I write it down into the table (column 5, line 6).
Stomach measurement at a 4cm distance above the waistline:
It is 71.5cm on the pattern and Kate’s measurement equals 69cm.
Let me calculate:
71.5cm –2cm = 69.5cm
(69cm – 69.5cm) ÷ 2 = - 0.25cm
We can say there is basically no alteration along the side seam of the back at the level of the stomach.
I write “0” into the table (column 5, line 7).
There is the same -2cm along the side seam (column 5, line 10).
As you can see, there is a great divergence of values along the side seam of the back piece in-between the bust and the under-bust areas. I need to re-distribute these values (+0.5cm and +2cm) in order to achieve a smooth side line.
This requires a little working on the back curves.
I have made the following decision: I will leave the +0.5cm value along the bust-line (column 6, line 4) and use exactly the same value (+0.5cm) along the under-bust line (column 6, line 5).
However in this case I get some extra +1.5cm that need to be added somewhere. I will add them to the curve lines of the back.
Let me calculate the adjustment value for each curve line:
1.5cm ÷ 2 = +0.75cm
This means I need to add +0.75cm to the curve line at the under-bust level (column 7, line 5).
Other calculation values for the side seam of the back remain unchanged (column 6, lines 6, 7 and 10).
As a result of this re-calculation I have slightly shortened the dart on the back shifting the back piece somewhat behind the shoulder-blade.
All calculations have been performed and I can begin cutting now.
I will apply all alterations to the standard pattern directly on fabric.