Tutorial 2. Sewing the Mock-up and Modelling its Bottom. Altering the Pattern.
Now we need to join all our patterns along their vertical edges.
I recommend numbering each piece for the sake of convenience. It will help you avoid mistakes in joining the patterns, especially if you’re using them for the first time and they are new to you.
I join the pieces of the mock-up along their vertical edges.
It is a good idea to topstitch all seams now turning their seam allowances to whichever side you want them to stay on when the garment is finished. I would like you to pay special attention to the direction of each seam allowance because it has a direct influence upon the location of vertical seams and outer cased bones that will later be stitched along all vertical curves of the corset. As a rule you lay a cased bone over a seam allowance. So the seam allowances that show through fabric now basically indicate the location of cased bones.
Next I join the cup pieces. Working with a mock-up you can check if all notches match and if all pieces coincide properly and determine areas that require some easing-in (or those where fullness should be removed). You can also slightly customize the pieces. In other words it is a kind of a final rehearsal before sewing the actual garment. Sometimes new ideas concerning assembly sequence or junction treatment strike you as you’re working on a mock-up.
I match the cup piece with the corset body and join them.
I make notches in the middle of the cup and the body pieces and match them along these notches. I make a joining seam starting in the middle and going left and then I make another one starting in the middle but going right.
I topstitch the joining seam directing the seam allowances up towards the cups.
Now I need to join the side seams.
I match their bust-line notches. Please note that there is some additional allowance for finishing the lining on the cup piece whereas the back piece will have a pencil-edge finish along its top edge and therefore needs no extra allowance.
I join the side seams after matching their waistline and bust-line notches keeping in mind there is an additional seam allowance along the top edge of the cup piece for joining the face with the lining.
I topstitch the side seams directing their seam allowances towards the back piece.
Then I write the number of each corset piece at its bottom because I want to model the bottom line later. Since we are going to alter the configuration of the bottom, I have decided to number the pieces before putting the mock-up on the dress-form to avoid confusion and to know where each part belongs.
Now I put the mock-up on the dress-form and give it a proper shape with the help of foam shoulder pads and padding polyester.
And then I take a measuring tape and measure the results. ==
- Along the waistline:
- Along the stomach, 12cm below the waistline. You can mark control points 12cm below the waistline across the whole perimeter of the corset for the sake of convenience. I got 84cm.
- Along the bu st-line:
You should measure it along all major lines. You could measure the side length, the length of the back – in short anything you need.
I have just shown you what a mock-up is like. I hope I have managed to answer a very frequently asked set of questions: how to measure, what to measure, and “why do my measurements differ from yours”? You just need to sew your own mock-up! And you will get your own pattern that you know like the back of your hand!
And now we need to alter the bottom line. This corset is way too long. And the model itself should be slightly different. I want to shorten the length so as to make a pretty down-pointing triangle. Let us draw a beautiful bottom line with a smooth passage onto the back. I shall lower the bottom line at the back because it looks better that way.
So, I have drawn a pretty bottom line. This line will be used as a reference for cutting and shaping the bottom edge. I have previously taken all measurements off the mock-up and off the client for this sake.
Now I take the mock-up off the dress-form and cut it along the marked line.
These are basically the pieces you need to account for during the cutting process; in other words you should remove this much fabric from each corresponding corset piece.
Do it any way you find convenient: you can unstitch the pieces, iron them and arrange them together to apply necessary alterations, or you can do it without unstitching them. It depends on your skills.
I take one pattern and lay the corresponding cut-out piece over it. Then I outline the top edge of the cut-out piece (keep in mind that there is a seam allowance here).
Now I take the second pattern, match it with its corresponding cut-out piece and mark the top edge.
Then I take the third piece. Make sure to match pieces correctly and account for the seam allowance.
And the fourth piece, the back of the corset.
Now the fifth piece.
And the sixth piece.
Here it is: we have finished modelling the bottom line.
You can either cut all extra cardboard off the patterns or transfer your newly modelled patterns onto a new piece of cardboard or plastic for future reference.