Tutorial 2. Transferring the Pattern on Fabric.
Let us continue.
I trace the central front piece “as is” stopping at the bust line. I add a 1.2cm seam allowance for the central seam.
I trace the intermediate front piece − again, stopping at the bust line.
And I trace the side front piece “as is.” According to the calculations, the whole front side seam line should be shifted 1.5cm outwards. I mark this 1.5cm.
And I re-draw the bottom line using the standard pattern as a template and aligning the waist notches.
I re-draw the side seam line and connect it with the princess seam point at the top.
I transfer the back side piece “as is” and then mark 1cm down the bottom, at the waistline, and at the top of the pattern.
I re-draw the side seam line in the area from the waist and down. Please, note how the bottom line is adjusted accordingly.
Again, I align the waist notches of the pattern and the drawing, re-draw the side seam line up from the waistline, and adjust the top line.
I trace the central back piece “as is.”
I need to adjust the princess seams in accordance with the adjusted side seam line. I mark 0.8cm outwards at the bust line level and 1.5cm outwards at the under-bust line level (which is located 12cm above the waistline). I connect the two points. I remove 0.5cm in the waist and 0.8cm at the very bottom of the corset. Using the pattern, I align the waist notches and re-draw the princess seam line on the central back piece going first up and then down from the waistline and adjusting the top line and the bottom line.
The princess seam line on the side back piece needs to be re-drawn in the same manner.
And now, let us return to the top part of the front.
The bust line is supposed to be moved 2cm closer to the waistline.
I re-draw the bust line using the standard pattern. Done.
I cross out the old lines. Now I have a new bust line notch and a new under-bust line notch.
Let us adjust the clip as indicated by calculations. It needs to be shortened by 2cm at the top.
But, at the same time, I need to restore the initial side length by prolonging it.
I re-draw the bust line on the central front piece accordingly.
I had to shift it closer to the side because the new piece would otherwise not fit in. Remember to cross out all irrelevant old lines immediately to avoid confusion later.
The clip needs to be shortened by 2cm in accordance with the measurement.
According to the measurement, I need to mark 6.5cm from the bust apex point up toward the neckline plus another 1.2cm for a seam allowance.
The neckline will go like this:
Frankly speaking, looking at the adjusted pattern now, I believe a 19cm side seam is a bit too long for a young girl like Olga. Although she is tall enough, the seam will probably rub against the skin and cause irritation in the armpits.
I will shorten it by 1.2cm at the top. It will still correspond with the clip measurement. I cross out all irrelevant lines leaving only the right ones. There is nothing you can do – one must always think twice!
This is not all though.
There will be a lovely slit at the bottom of the princess seam which joins the intermediate front piece with the side front piece. There will be three grommets set in along either edge of the slit at 2cm intervals. I mark a 1.2cm seam allowance up from the bottom along the slit edge and then mark another 1.2cm to the first grommet. Then, I mark the positions of the grommets themselves and mark 2cm from the last one (the end of the slit). The slit is 8.5cm long. I mark the same length on the second symmetric piece. You must make a notch there, too.
To give the slit the shape of a triangle, you need to cut it accordingly. Let the base of the triangle be 1.5cm. In this case, I need to mark 0.8cm inwards on either piece. Watch out not to join them in this area by accident!