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Tutorial 20. Putting Bones on the Front Half of the Dress.

Tutorial 20. Putting Bones on the Front Half of the Dress.

I am often asked about the total length of boning required for the bodice of some or other dress. The front half of the bodice usually requires about 600cm. You can calculate it more precisely by measuring all marked guidelines. I already know that I will use 600cm.

But, first, I need to make a row of stay-stitches along the edges of the side front pieces (1.2cm from the edge). I have already sewn a row of stay-stitches along the neckline of the central front piece.

The first bones will be put along the perimeter of the cups.

The bones that pass along the curved areas need to be gathered in a half-circle shape. First I gather the bone lightly by pulling on its fishing lines and then I give it the final shape by pulling on just the outermost fishing line. I trim the ends of fishing lines.

I start by putting a narrow gathered Rigilene bone along the top border of the cup. The bone is positioned about 1mm from the stay-stitching.

I slightly ease in the fabric in the curved areas of the cup. The degree of ease-in is always determined based on experience. You should be able to feel how much you need to ease in to ensure a good fit. There is one simple rule though: larger breasts imply less easing in, and vice versa. The ends of all bones are to be sealed with bits of masking tape.

I put the bone about 1.5cm from the armscye edge and secure it with a single row of stitches along the outer edge. It passes along the neckline and stops under the cup, 2mm above the edge of the hard iron-on fabric.

I reinforce the other side of the neckline with a symmetric bone.

Here is what the piece looks like now:

You can distribute the eased-in fabric along the full length of the cup area.

Next, I need to put a perimeter bone along the bottom border of the cup. I step 5mm from the stay-stitching at the top of the cup, put a gathered narrow Rigilene bone along the edge of the hard iron-on fabric, and secure it with a single row of stitches along the outer edge. The curved areas are supposed to be eased-in, too. The ends of bones are sealed with masking tape as always.

The perimeter bones are all in place now. It is time to add the rest. I position narrow gathered Rigilene bones as marked and secure them with two parallel rows of stitches (the numbering is the same as before). The ends of these inner bones are to be pushed under the perimeter bones attached along their outer edge. Remember to make bar tacks! And never ease in when sewing bones on the inside of the cup!

I sew on the two halves of bone 1 which passes along the bust line.










And I sew on the two halves of bone 5 which passes above the bust line just the same way.

I put a horizontal bone below the bust line (4).

Then I put vertical bones on the cup.

I put down the first inclined vertical bone (3), put a bone along the bust princess seam, and put down the second inclined vertical bone (12). The ends of all these bones are pushed under the perimeter bones.

I put an inclined vertical bone on the other cup (12), then put a bone along the bust princess seam, and add another inclined vertical bone (8). The ends of all bones are pushed under the perimeter bones.

I have put all bones on the inside of the cups.

Now I need to secure the perimeter bones by stitching along the inner edge.

Done!


All that is left to do is put vertical bones on the front of the dress. They will be straight (ungathered) narrow Rigilene bones. I am not using any wide Rigilene bones because my client doesn’t need any serious body shaping. All I need is a robust inner construction. All bones are secured with two parallel rows of stitches and their ends are sealed with masking tape. Bar tacks are compulsory, too.

I put vertical bones 9 and 10 on the side front piece.

Then I put a vertical Rigilene bone along the bust princess seam.

I put vertical bones 13 and 14 in the middle of the central front piece. 

Then I put a vertical Rigilene bone along the bust princess seam.



I put vertical bones on the other side front piece.

The front of the dress is now fully reinforced with bones. 

It has taken about 600сm narrow Rigilene boning. And I need about another 300сm to finish everything.

But first I will press the front with the bones.

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