Tutorial 23. Putting the Last Bones on the Lining of the Dress.
I can add some final touches to the lining after examining it on the dress-form.
I will, first of all, sew the side seams properly and then press them and put bones along them. I could have topstitched the side seams instead of pressing them open but I prefer to press them in case I need to apply changes and re-sew them later.
I sew the first side seam.
And I sew the other side seam.
Both side seams have been pressed now.
I will reinforce them with narrow straight Rigilene bones (wide bones would also do). The bone is sewn on with two parallel rows of stitches and its ends are sealed with masking tape. It starts 0.5cm below the top row of stay-stitches and stops about 2mm above the bottom edge of the iron-on fabric.
I need to restore the row of stay-stitches on the face of the garment before sewing on the bone. First of all, I mark the position of the row with a pin. The pin should be visible from the inside.
I sew the bone on.
And I put a symmetric bone along the other side seam after marking the row of stay-stitches with a pin. This time I sew from down to up (from the edge of the iron-on fabric).
I move to the top edges of the lining.
During the fitting, I measured the expected length of the top edge on one half of the lining. It was 35cm.
I measure the actual length of the top edge from the zipper to the top corner of the neckline (the intersection of stay-stitches). It is 35.5cm.
The lengths differ by just 0.5cm.
What I will do is take a Rigilene bone with a length of exactly 35cm and put it along the neckline with a little easing in to fit it properly.
I take a straight narrow Rigilene bone with a length of exactly 35cm and put it first along one half of the neckline and then along the other half of it.
I start sewing from the top corner of the cup. I move along the neckline in the direction of the armscye and distribute the fabric so as to make the opposite end of the bone arrive right at the zipper line (the central back edge without the seam allowance). I trim the bone after passing the vertical bone on the central back piece. The neckline is now reinforced along the full length (which is 35cm).
The bone needs to be secured with two parallel rows of stitches and its ends sealed with masking tape.
I sew a row of stitches along the other edge of the bone.
Sewing along the other half of the neckline is a little harder technically.
This time I have to start from the armscye. I try to keep the ends of the bone aligned with the desired sewing start and end points. I mark the sewing end point along the neckline and mark a line on the bone to specify where to trim it.
Next, I align the opposite end of the bone (sealed with masking tape) with the point marked along the neckline and start sewing it on. I ease in the fabric as I sew so as to get the mark on the bone aligned with the top corner of the cup.
I make a row of stitches along the other edge of the bone.
The entire neckline of the dress is now reinforced with Rigilene boning.
And now it is time to add the grosgrain ribbon.
I cut a length of 66cm (client's Waist Circumference) and mark its middle.
I position the ribbon just above the waistline, align its middle with the middle of the dress, and pin it down right there.
Next, I pin the ribbon to the halves of the back, re-distribute the fabric, and pin it on along the full length.
I secure the ribbon with two rows of stitches: one along the top and another along the bottom edge.
I make a bar tack as I reach the seam allowance of the side seam, continue sewing, and make another bar tack after passing the side seam and its seam allowance. I continue sewing until I reach the other side seam, make a bar tack before and after the seam allowance (just like before), and continue sewing until the ribbon ends. The bottom row of stitches is sewn just the same way, i.e. with bar tacks before and after the side seams. I also make bar tacks at the beginning and at the end of the sewing.
With the grosgrain ribbon sewn on this way, I can always quickly rip up the stitches between the bar tacks near the side seams if I have to adjust the side seams in the waist area. The ribbon itself will stay secured in place. And I can always restore the stitches between the bar tacks made before and after the side seams after applying necessary changes.
One row of stitches is made along the top edge of the ribbon:
And another row is made along its bottom edge:
The grosgrain ribbon is installed! It will protect the lining from stretching out in the waist during further work and in wear. The initial shape of the dress in the waist will be preserved fully corresponding with the client's waist size.
The lining is finished. It is turn to work on the face of the dress.