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Garments you can make using this technology:

In this course we will learn how to sew the most popular wedding dress design – classic dress with a full skirt and lace straps.

And we will learn how to make a perfect fitting dress to a client from a long distance, relying solely on the measurements.


  • Sewing a crinoline petticoat from A-Z.
  • How to make opaque a skirt made from thin tulle.
  • How to calculate skirt width so it will fit perfectly to the crinoline.
  • How to adjust the pattern for you client’s size.
  • How to draft a pattern for the shoulder straps (2 options)
  • Peculiarities of long distance sewing.
  • How to make a “virtual” fit test.
  • How to use a mannequin for fit test.
  • What to do, when a mannequin won’t fit your client’s size.

Where to use:

  • This technology is absolutely universal and has no limits in choosing and creating any style of wedding and evening dresses!

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 11h 21m

Tutorial 24. Installing a Zipper. Sewing the Central Back Seam.

I will start by sewing a blind zipper into the central back seam.

The main skirt will be overlaid by a four-layer tulle skirt and I am yet to decide whether I need to install the second zipper in it. If I do, then you will be supposed to first zip up the main skirt and then zip up the four-layer tulle skirt.

The blind zipper is sewn in the traditional way. First I sew the zipper tape in place and then secure the zipper for good by stitching close to the teeth with a specialty zipper presser foot. Then I stitch up the beginning of the central back seam on a single-toe presser foot and, finally, switch back to the regular presser foot and finish sewing the central back seam.

I sew the zipper tape to the central back pieces as marked: first along one edge and then along the other edge.

And then I stitch close to the teeth using the zipper presser foot. 


And here comes a very crucial moment: I need to sew the central seam at the back of the dress.

I put together the two halves of the zipper tape and secure them with a pin.

I switch to a single-toe presser foot and put the needle in the zipper end point.

I make a very neat bar tack and several joining stitches. Remember that the central back seam has a 2cm seam allowance.

I switch back to the regular presser foot and finish sewing the seam.

And now I would like to talk about finishing the vertical edges of the face pieces.

I am strongly against serging them because the serging thread leaves imprints on the face of the garment after you press it.

I prefer heat-sealing the edges of face pieces using a pyrography tool with variable temperature control and a special tip.

Other tools you need are a glass plate and a steel ruler.

Make sure to test it on a small piece of fabric before working with the actual garment. This will allow you to determine the right temperature for your particular fabric type.

I choose the temperature and start heat-sealing the vertical edges of the pieces. It is best to remove the trimmed away edges straight away while the fabric is still hot.

Remember to clean the tip of your soldering iron from time to time. I do it with a nail file.

This kind of treatment gives you smooth and clean, perfectly sealed edges. It is also rather fast but you need to be extremely careful and accurate. When you get the hang of it, you will see that heat-sealing fabric edges is even faster than serging them. And it definitely looks cleaner, too.

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Wedding Dress with Built-in Corset

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