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Tutorial 25. Assembling the Face of the Dress.

Tutorial 25. Assembling the Face of the Dress.

I have finished the vertical edges and now I can sew the princess seams of the face.

I start from the back princess seams. I sew with a 1.2cm seam allowance in the duplicated area and narrow it down to about 7mm on the skirt, starting from the area where I trimmed the edge and down to the bottom. I basically narrow it by the width of the trimmed away strip of fabric (about 5mm).

I carefully align the princess seam edges of the pieces whenever I pass from duplicated to non-duplicated fabric. I spread out the entire princess seam and keep aligning the edges section after section as I sew. This allows me to achieve neat even princess seams.

The second princess seam was sewn in two goes: first I stitched from a point a couple centimeters below the edge of the iron-on fabric up to the top of the back and then I turned the garment around and stitched from the same point down to the bottom. It was easier to maintain the right length of the princess seam this way.

I move to the front princess seams. The face is the most important part of the dress so the princess seams must be flawless!

I sew the second front princess seam.

And I trim the seam allowances.

You can either trim them right now or press them open first. I will trim them right now. If you don't feel comfortable pressing open narrow seam allowances, then press them first and then trim them.

Please remember: it will be harder to press the seam allowances if you trim them now but they will be more even. And if you press them open first and then trim them, the pressing process will be a lot easier but you will hardly be able to maintain the same width along the full length. In short, you need to set your own priorities here.

I trim the seam allowances only in the duplicated area keeping them at about 0.6cm. The ends are trimmed at an angle. I gradually return to the initial width of 1.2cm as I reach the end of the iron-on fabric.

I trim the seam allowance of the second front princess seam.

Then I trim the seam allowance of the back princess seam.

And I trim the seam allowance of the second back princess seam.

All princess seams need to be pressed open.

I start by pressing the bust princess seams on a cup pressing mould. I press the cups in a circular motion carefully flattening the princess seams and paying particular attention to the corners of the cups. After finishing the cups, I press the vertical princess seams on a flat surface removing all wrinkles or creases.

Can you see this border between the duplicated and the non-duplicated fabric? It is the reason why sewing with this fabric implies using some decor!

It would not help even if I added another layer of fabric. The border between duplicated and non-duplicate areas would still show through.

This is a good example of how careful you must always be when choosing fabrics for your dress.

Next I need to press open the back princess seams. Be very careful with the neckline and try your best not to stretch it out. I will also press the zipper area and add a hook and eye closure just above the zipper to prevent it from going undone.

All face parts of the dress have been pressed. 

It is time to sew the side seams. 

I need to account for the adjustments made on the lining. I start sewing the side seam with a 2cm seam allowance moving from up to down. The seam allowance is supposed to narrow down to 1.5cm toward the waistline and I will continue sewing that way down to the end of the iron-on fabric. Starting from the end of the iron-on fabric, I will gradually narrow the seam allowance down to 1.2cm. And I will gradually bring it down to 7mm after reaching the area of the skirt where I started trimming the edges.

I sew the first side seam as described above.

I sew the second side seam.

I will trim the seam allowances after the final fitting on the client. And for now I simply press them flat toward the back of the dress.

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