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Tutorial 3. Alteration of the standard pattern.

Tutorial 3. Alteration of the standard pattern.

So, I have printed out the sheets of standard pattern. Along the perimeter of printed sheets there is a white strip, which is a technical peculiarity of printers. Do not pay attention to it when gluing the pieces together and you can draw the unprinted areas of patterns with pen. In order to glue the pieces correctly there is a thumbnail in the center of each pattern piece, where the piece you hold is highlighted with grey. All sheets and all pattern pieces are numbered.

All pattern pieces have 1.2 cm for seam allowance on the top, the bottom, the back, the curves and the side seams. There is no seam allowance only on the fold of the central piece. If you plan to cut this piece, then you will need to add seam allowance manually.

On the central and the middle pieces of the corset front (pieces 1 and 2) the blue line outlines the heart-shaped neck pattern and the black line outlines the boat neck pattern. The difference is only in those two patterns, although the difference is drastic. I want to remind again that you need to carefully choose the pattern depending on the model.

The side pattern of the corset front (piece 3), the side piece of the corset back (piece 4) and the central piece of the corset back (piece 5) are the same for both the neckline shapes.

 

I start the alteration of the standard pattern from the adjustments in the side seam. I take the patterns of the side pieces of the front and the back. In accordance with the calculations I make alterations: there is no adjustment in the bust line, but I need to add 0.5 cm to the standard pattern from the under the bust line to the bottom of corset. I draw the new side lines of the front and the back and as stencil I use the side pattern pieces, which I previously used to sew the mock-up. For convenience you can trace the pattern pieces to cardboard or plastic.

 

 

 

 

It is necessary to check the upper and the lower cuts of patterns. You need to mark the bottom point on the new pattern, because the bottom of the new pattern can shift up or down by several millimeters over the standard pattern when you make changes in the side seam or the curves. The length of the side seam and the curve should remain unchanged regardless of any alterations. Therefore, carefully check the lengths of the side seam and the curves, otherwise the corset pieces may not be combined during stitching!

 

 

I make the adjustments into the back curve in the side and the central pieces of the corset back.  There is no alteration in the bust line and I add 0.7 cm to the under bust line. There is no alteration in the waistline and I remove 0.5 cm along the stomach line at a distance of 12 cm from the waistline. There is no need to make alterations at the hip line as the length of our corset in the back is longer than the stomach line. Although, if you wish to make a full alteration, you can draw the hip line at a distance of 19 cm from the waistline and draw a new lower edge of the corset. Then you need to add 0.7 cm in the hip line according to the calculations. I re-draw the back curves lines using the standard pattern as a stencil.

I make a compulsory notch of the bottom line. The photos illustrate that after alterations the new curve on the back side piece shifted for 1 mm towards the top of the piece in comparison with the standard pattern. On the contrary, the new curve of the back central piece moved for approximately 1.5mm in the opposite direction. If you do not take into account these changes, there will be discrepancy during the new curves stitching.

For better illustration I trace in red the new lines of the side seam and the back curves for cutting. I round the lines and give them a beautiful outline. It is compulsory to mark notches of the main circumference lines.

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