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Tutorial 3. Applying Adjustments to the Back Pieces.

Tutorial 3. Applying Adjustments to the Back Pieces.

I will start from adjusting the back side seam line. I shift it 1cm inwards in the area from the top to the stomach line and 0.5cm inwards at the hip line level.

And I re-draw the back side seam line using the piece as a template: first I re-draw the section from the top to the stomach line and then I turn the piece and bring the side seam line to the marked 0.5cm. Remember to re-draw the top line.

I shorten the new side seam line by 1cm to adjust down the side length. I mark a seam allowance of 2cm, find the top point (point A), and bring the new top line to the center of the back. You could basically shorten the whole back by 1cm. Or the other way round: you could raise the back by another 1.5-2cm considering that the blade height back measurement is 18cm on the pattern and 20cm on the client. It is up to you. As for me, I will preserve the same length of the back as on the standard pattern.

I need to apply adjustments to the back princess seam, or dart. I shift it 0.5cm inwards at the bust line level, 0.5cm outwards at the under-bust level, leave it as is at the waistline, and shift it 0.3cm inwards at the stomach level. There are no changes at the hip line level. I re-draw the dart (dark green).  Despite the wavy new sewing line under the bust, I am sure it will be even after I carefully press the dart. Besides, there will be lacing panels sewn in here.

I take a red marker and re-draw the dart with a 2cm seam allowance included. The back piece is now customized.

I believe it makes sense to mark lacing panels straight away. I always add an inner lacing on dresses with a zipper at the back to make the zip-up area more robust. The zipper may not cope with the pressure on its own.

I need to cut two lacing panels.

The lacing will start 4cm below the top edge of the back and stop at the end of the dart, which in my case stops right at the stomach line. I add a seam allowance of 2cm at the bottom to make the lacing panels correspond with these dimensions in their actual size.

What concerns the width of the lacing panel, I will make it stop 1.2cm from the central edge of the back (the width of the seam allowance) to prevent it from overlapping with the zipper tape. In other words, there will be a gap of 2.4cm between the finished lacing panels.

The side of the lacing panel which will be sewn into the dress repeats the shape of the dart, which is why I will simply follow the dart line when cutting it out.

I trace the lacing panel with a blue marker and mark the top line. The lacing panels will be cut out simultaneously with the main parts of the dress.

Make sure to mark waistline notches on the dart and on the lacing panels so you can align them perfectly.

I have cut out all parts of the customized dress pattern. Remember to make notches on all new lines and transfer the points for aligning the pieces (marked red). This will really help you sew the bust princess seams and other curved seams of the dress.

It is time to print out and glue together the skirt. I only need the change the configuration of its side seam line in the area from the hip line to the bottom edge. I print sheets 2, 4, 6, 8, and 9 for this purpose. These sheets have the side seam line on them. If you need to sew this skirt as a separate garment, print out the full pattern and go ahead.

I glue the sheets together and cut out the skirt piece.

I put the side front piece and the skirt piece together aligning their hip lines and get the prolonged front side seam line with the required degree of flare included.

The back side seam line is figured out the same way.

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