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Tutorial 3. Cutting the Bodice.

Tutorial 3. Cutting the Bodice.

I draw all parts of the bodice on paper and cut them out. Then I arrange them on the ironing board and measure their total width and length.

After doing so, I tear off a corresponding piece of iron-on batiste to duplicate the main fabric. I will duplicate the face and the lining simultaneously.

The bodice will be made of genuine linen and the skirt – of cotton fabric with a little lycra in it.

I prepare the fabric by pressing it lightly.

Then, I overlay it with the iron-on batiste and start fusing it on. Make sure no threads get under the iron-on batiste. If they do, it will show through on the face of the dress.

Area by area, I duplicate the entire piece which will serve both as the face and the lining of the bodice. Duplicating cotton fabric is a real pleasure.

I cut the required amount of fabric to make things easier:

I fold the duplicated fabric two times:

And I start laying down the paper patterns.

I draw the waistline perpendicular to the fold line. It will help me position all pieces correctly.

None of the pieces are cut with a fold line because the dress will be laced at the front and at the back.

I secure the first paper piece on the fabric with just two pins and mark 1.2cm seam allowances along the perimeter.

I outline the piece together with the seam allowances and mark notches.

Then I remove the paper piece.

The same thing needs to be done with all remaining paper pieces:

Remember to add 1.2cm seam allowances along the full perimeter of each piece.

I secure the fabric layers with pins for the sake of convenience:

And I cut the pieces out and notch them as marked.

Always remember to check if you can align the pieces properly.

I trim all corners that might stand in the way when I am joining the pieces.

I remove the pins and group the pieces into the face and the lining.

I have finished cutting the bodice and prepared the pieces for joining.

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