Tutorial 3. Cutting the Skirt. Assembling the Front of the Lining.
Sewing on the First Horizontal Bone.
Here is how I cut the bodice of Noa’s dress.
1. I draw a pattern following the calculation method:
2. I cut all bodice pieces from paper.
3. I arrange them on the table with some gaps in-between to account for 1.2cm seam allowances.
4. I measure the total width and length of the lay.
5. I multiply the width and the length by two because I want to cut the face and the lining simultaneously. I will use cotton satin fabric. In addition, I need a piece of iron-on fabric of the same size. Therefore, I also know how much iron-on fabric I need.
6. I duplicate the main fabric.
7. And I fold it two times. The fabric is now prepared and I can cut the face and the lining.
8. I place the centre front piece to the fabric fold line and mark the position of the waistline. I draw the waistline across the entire piece of fabric.
9. I put the centre front piece back to the fabric fold line and outline it adding seam allowances along all cutting lines.
10. I transfer all pattern pieces the same way aligning them with the marked waistline and adding seam allowances.
11. I secure everything with pins, cut out the pieces, and mark all compulsory notches.
12. I group the face and the lining pieces separately.
Now I take the lining pieces first.
I connect the bust line notches on the centre front piece using a disappearing ink pen. There will be a horizontal bone here.
I do the same with the side front pieces. Please note that I draw on the face side.
I need to sew the bust princess seams of the central piece.
I align the pieces in the point where their bust lines meet.
And I join them with a 1.2cm seam allowance:
I drafted the pattern for Noa based on calculations without checking the alignment of its parts. This may result in minor irregularities. Such is the price you pay for using the calculation method of pattern drafting. And this is why I prefer using tried and true patterns for adults. I trim the seam allowances lengthwise and their ends at an angle. I spread the seam allowances open and topstitch them from both sides.
You could press them open but I prefer topstitching them so I don't have to leave the sewing machine. I trim the seam allowances.
Now I sew the side front piece. The princess seam is straighter and easier to sew this time.
I spread the seam allowances open and topstitch them from both sides again. I trim them lengthwise and trim the ends at an angle.
Then I take a narrow Rigilene bone and tape its ends over with bits of masking tape. I step about 2cm from the edge and sew the bone along the bust line marked on the face of the lining. I place the bone just below the line. The line runs along the right side of the bone. I slightly pull on the fabric to create a little volume. Do not ease in the fabric underneath the bone! If you do, the bodice will stay flat. I cut the bone 2cm from the opposite edge of the piece, make small bar tacks at the end, and return with the second row of parallel stitches. Remember to make bar tacks at the other end as well.
The chest area has a kind of a convex shape now:
Next, I take a bias tape and overlay the Rigilene bone starting from the very edge of the piece.
You probably wonder why I am sewing this bone onto the face of the lining. The thing is I won't pad the chest area with padding polyester but, at the same time, I don't want the bone to protrude through the face of the bodice. I will overlay the bone with a bias tape from the inside.
I even out the top edge of the joined pieces:
And I secure them with a row of stay-stitches:
Then I fold the joined pieces in half to maintain symmetry and even out the bottom edge:
I sew a row of stay-stitches along the bottom edge as well: