Tutorial 2. Fusing of Fabric, Corset Cutting.
In this tutorial I start directly with the cutting.
I have prepared all my notes and calculations made during the previous tutorial.
I have taken my standard pattern for this corset.
First of all I need to figure out how much fabric is going to be consumed.
Fabric consumption is determined in a very simple way.
I take the patterns and lay them out in the same sequence I am going to lay them out onto fabric.
I take all calculated alterations into account when laying the pieces out: I will reduce and expand them where needed. You don’t have to lay patterns out very precisely.
I use a measuring tape to see how much fabric approximately I am going to need.
I got about 22.8 inches.
I tear off 47.2 inches of iron-on batiste (deliberately oversized) and as much of the main material.
Preparation of Fabric.
My iron-on batiste is 35.4 inches wide. This width is exactly enough for the full cutting of both the face and the lining.
Then I fold this piece of batiste in half, even out cut edges and then fold it in half once more.
Please take a look at the picture to see how I place this batiste piece. Note the way its cut edges and creases are located:
You can see how the patterns are spread on fabric from the middle of the front to the middle of the back:
Now I take a piece of face fabric.
I am going to use the same fabric both for face and lining: crepe-satin.
I am fusing iron-on batiste onto the whole piece of crepe-satin:
You shouldn’t hurry when fusing; you should distribute the fabric accurately to avoid bubbles and creases.
The quality of the cut and the garment itself depends on the way I’m going to fuse the iron-on fabric onto the main one now.
Afterwards I fold fused fabric the way I have planned it; all creases get evened out and pinned together and the fabric is now fully prepared for cutting.
I start laying out pattern pieces.
I lay down the pattern of the central piece of the front.
Based on the calculation I shift the pattern by 0.4 inches beyond the fabric creases thereby reducing it:
The pattern itself is outlined “as is” with no changes.
I transfer every notch very carefully.
The pattern you see in pictures has a certain neckline shape. But I want to make a design with a straight cut or a “strapless” type. That is why I am taking another standard pattern but with a different neckline cut - the one I need:
I outline the neckline cut according to this pattern and shift the cut down by 1.6 inches based on the “clip” measurement:
I am going to provide you with a ready-to-use strapless pattern but I think it is useful and interesting to see a possible implementation of patterns with varying top cuts.
I start working with the pattern of the front side piece.
I draw a waistline across the notches on the outlined pattern of the central front piece in order to arrange the grain of fabric correctly against the pattern. This line is perpendicular to the fabric crease.
I am placing the pattern of the front side piece onto fabric so that the waistline of the pattern perfectly coincides with the waistline that has been drawn on fabric:
I outline the pattern “as is”.
Then I make all necessary changes based on the calculations.
First of all I make a new side seam line.
For that purpose I mark 0.4 inches (see the table) decreasingly along the waistline and draw a new side seam line of the front through this point, parallel to the line drawn after the standard pattern.
I use the corresponding sides of the same pattern for drawing lines going through calculation points.
Then I draw a new top line (0.4 inches below) also referring to the top line of the standard pattern.
I pin the fabric together along the newly drawn lines in order to prevent it from shifting.
To prevent fabric layers from shifting I am trying to add pins horizontally in a gliding motion, parallel to the table, rather than add them at the right angle to the fabric.
Now I take the side piece of the back.
I place waistline notches along the waistline drawn on the fabric and outline the pattern.
Please note that I use plastic patterns or patterns made of thick cardboard. Such patterns don’t need to be pinned to the fabric.
Now I correct the side length, the length of the side seam on the back and the curve.
All calculations have been carried out and all values are in the table.
I connect all calculation points referring to the standard pattern, i.e. I try to transfer all curve lines from the old pattern.
A very important aspect!
Having marked the calculation points (see the picture) I draw new lines with the help of the standard pattern starting from the waistline. I draw the bottom part of the line first, then turn the pattern around the point on the waistline and draw the top part of the line.
The top and bottom lines of the calculated pattern are also drawn based on the standard pattern.
This way all the parts of the new pattern are going to match each other perfectly. The lines will have a smooth flow.
And here is finally the central part of the back.
I put the pattern on the fabric matching notches on the waistline with the waistline line.
I outline the standard pattern.
I alter the back curve in the same manner.
I adjust down the standard pattern by 0.2 inches at the under-bust level.
It is adjusted down by 0.5 inches at the levels of waistline and stomach.
Now I match the waistline notch of the standard pattern with the waistline notch on the drawing and place the bottom left corner of the standard pattern at the new calculation point along the stomach line.
I draw the bottom half of a new curve line over the pattern.
Then I draw the top half of the curve line turning the standard pattern around the intersection of the notches.
This way I have drawn all corset patterns on the fabric after my client Kate’s measurements:
I draw a “clip” pattern where fabric space allows it. I am going to sew it as well and put it underneath corset lacing so no skin can be seen through. It is a rectangle as long as the back piece and about as wide as 3.9-4.7 inches.
I cut out my pattern pieces. Making notches is necessary.
Then I unpin the pieces and sort them out into face parts and lining parts.
Marking the Location of Bones.
I take the lining pieces and mark the spots where the bones are going to be attached to them.
I make markings for horizontal bones.
I connect the notches with a line going along the bust-line at the central part of the front.
I also connect the notches along the bust-line on both halves of the front side part.
Now I make markings for vertical bones.
I look for the middle point of the waistline and the bust-line on the central part. Then I draw a vertical line passing through these points. This is where the central vertical bone is going to be sewn-on.
I also draw a vertical line through the midpoints of the waistline and bust-line on both halves of the front side part.
As for both halves of the back side part - only vertical bones are going to be placed here. I make the same kind of markings and draw a vertical line passing through the midpoints of the waistline and bust-line.
There won’t be any bones on the central pieces of the back because there will be the bones of the lacing at this spot.
So, during this tutorial I have fused the fabric, made a pattern for Kate using my standard pattern, cut it out and marked the points where the bones are going to be sewn-on.
In the next tutorial I am going to start the sewing process itself.