Tutorial 3. Marking the Position of the Busk. Cutting the Corset.
I want to decide on the positions of the busk plates and the under-bust bone and mark the positions of grommets above the busk straight away, before cutting. I put the busk down where it is supposed to be, draw a line for the under-bust bone (line 1), and mark the positions of three grommets placed at 2cm intervals just like along the slits.
I cut out the pieces. I don't know whether you noticed it on our other DVDs and in our other books but I always try to cut it out along one side first.
Notches are compulsory at the beginning and the end of the busk, at the waistline, at the bust line, and at the under-bust line. These notches are a must. It is better to make more notches than needed than to make too few. The fabric is thick itself and even thicker when duplicated so you need to direct the scissors with your fingers to cut it neatly and precisely.
Many people get worried when they see those curved back princess seams. Trust me, there will be no air bubble after you sew it all, press it, and sew all bones in place. It will look perfectly flat and even.
This leftover fabric can be used for cutting a modesty flap for the back of the corset.
The width depends on your preferences. If you make it wider than needed, you can always adjust it down though.
Now, I need to cut a modesty flap for the front of the corset using the remaining fabric. It is best to prepare such small pieces in advance and get it over with in one go so you don't have to return to the cutting later.
I remove the pins and group the pieces into the face and the lining.
Let us mark the positions of bones on the lining.
I have already marked an under-bust bone (1) on the central front piece and now I need to transfer it onto the other piece. I connect the bust line notches (bone 2).
I take the intermediate front piece and connect the bust line notches (bone 2). I step 3cm from the edge along the bust line and draw an arc through this point for laying the under-bust bone (1). I step 2cm from the edge and draw an upward line dividing the top in half (bones 3 and 4). I draw a line for the bottom bone dividing the arcs in half (bone 5). Then I draw vertical bones in the middle of the pieces (bones 6 and 7). I step 3cm up from the bust line and draw a line for the top bone (8) just in case. I draw a question mark there because I will make the final decision during the sewing. I will also see whether it makes sense to sew an inclined bone onto the central piece. If it does, then I will surely do so.
The side front piece: I draw a bone in the middle of the piece.
The side back piece: a bone in the middle is a must. This area tends to wrinkle a lot and I need to reinforce it.
The central back piece: there will be three bones going along the lacing edge and one bone going along the princess seam.