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Garments you can make using this technology:

Features:

  • Combination of two sewing technologies: traditional one-layer (transparent) corset + Throw-over technique.
  • Pattern with vertical front reliefs and modern round separately cut cups consisting of three parts.

Skills you gain:

  • Marking boning in separately cut cups consisting of three parts;
  • Adjusting the size of this cup;
  • A new way of treating the front part of the cup;
  • Assembling chequered pieces in the Throw-over technique;
  • Special features of cutting and assembling garment from chequered pieces of fabric.

Where to use:

  • Widely used technology for creating wedding (and evening) dresses, and also for youth fashion corsets.

 

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 5h 07m

Tutorial 3. Modelling the Bottom Edge of the Corset.

So I have put the mock-up onto my dress-form.


And I need to solve two tasks now: test the pattern (and probably detect some errors) and then take and record all relevant measurements off the mock-up.

First of all, I am going to adjust the pattern slightly because I have found a minor fault. You are provided with the version that’s already been fixed.

Please do not rush to change the pattern before putting it on the dress-form. And that is not an easy thing! I confess it took me an hour to put this mock-up on mine. You need to stuff any hollow space with either foam shoulder pads or padding polyester. Then you need to stretch and spread the mock-up properly making sure each seam is in the right place. At first this mock-up looked absolutely wrong to me – it seemed all skewed and distorted although there was no reason for it to be that way! How is it possible? It never takes me long to put a mock-up onto the dress-form! But I have re-modelled the cups. That’s why it was more time-consuming than usual.

I am sharing it with you because I don’t want you to feel desperate if things don’t go right from the very beginning! Just be patient, take your time and put the mock-up on the dress-form very carefully.

I have made waistline notches as transferred from the pattern. So the waistline is already marked.  Right now the distance from the waistline to the bottom edge is 14cm.

After examining my mock-up I’ve realized that I want to re-model its bottom line and make it more graceful. I want to make it better suited for a young woman. So I have drawn a new bottom line the way I like it: it’s semi-round at the front, nearly straight on the sides and then semi-round at the back again.

Let’s start taking measurements off the mock-up. I suggest that you should write them down on the corresponding pattern pieces. For example, cup measurements should be marked on relevant cup pieces, etc.

Bust middle measurement – 19cm.

Clip measurement:

- Clip upwards – 7cm;

- Clip towards the neckline indent – 7.5cm;

- Clip towards the scye – 10cm.

Bust front measurement – 47cm.

Under-bust front measurement – 38cm.

Bust circumference.

I recommend that you do it the following way: measure the distance between the middle of the back and the side seam at the bust-line level – 18.5cm.

Then multiply it by two and add the value of the bust front measurement:

18.5 х 2 + 47 = 84cm

Under-bust circumference: measure the distance between the middle of the back and the side seam at the under-bust level – 16cm.

Multiply it two and add the value of the under-bust front measurement:

16 х 2 + 38 = 70cm

Waist circumference:  measure the distance between the middle of the back and the middle of the front at the waistline level – 33cm. I multiply the value by two and get 66cm.

Stomach circumference: 

- 14cm below the waistline (along the bottom edge): I measure the distance between the middle of the back and the middle of the front along the bottom edge – 45cm. I multiply it by two and get 90cm.

- 9cm below the waistline: I measure the distance between the middle of the back and the middle of the front at the level of 9cm below the waistline – 42cm. I multiply it by two and get 84cm.

Back length measurement – 18cm.

Side length measurement – 19cm.

These are all values you need for re-calculating and adjusting the pattern after the client’s measurements.

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