Tutorial 4. Sewing Together the Cup Pieces.
I start sewing the body by sewing together the lining pieces of the cups.
I place the pieces together. I hold the upper piece with my left hand and the bottom piece - with my right hand, and stitch them together in a single motion without using any bar tacks or pins.
The same thing is done from the other side.
If you find it easier to stitch bottom-upwards, you can stitch one curve from top downward and the other bottom-upwards. The cup pieces are small that’s why you can stitch in any direction. I topstitch the seams of the curves to save some time and speed up the sewing process:
You can press open instead of doing this but I like saving time. That’s why I prefer not having to leave my workplace but quickly topstitching the seam of the curve and trimming seam allowances.
I make a stay-stitch at a distance of the seam allowance (0.5 inches):
I trim all unnecessary thread and put the lining aside.
I start working on the face pieces of the cup.
The face pieces consist of the decorative lace and the main fabric. I place the lace pieces over the main fabric, arrange them carefully and pin the layers together.
I sew-on lace along the vertical curves on the central cup piece at a presser foot distance from the edge:
Please note the order of sewing pieces together - it is very important!
First you should sew the lace onto the main fabric along its vertical sides and only afterwards - along the horizontal sides!
Do not turn the garment around on the needle!
Always check how tense the decorative fabric is!
The central face piece of the cups is ready:
I join the lace with the main fabric on the side pieces exactly the same way and in the same order.
Now it’s time for some pressing.
I make the lining of the cup rounded, carefully pressing it with the steam iron in a circular motion on a cup pressing mould.
A few words about the iron.
You can even use a regular household iron without a steam generator for pressing all curves and seams with no bones stitched-on yet.
A steam generator and quite heavy steaming is used for pressing out beautiful dome-shaped cups with Rigilene bones quilted on.
What is the use of a steam generator?
Generally speaking, you need a steam generator for shaping Rigilene bones but you don’t really need it when sewing naturally soft garments. However I am deeply convinced that a beautiful shape of cups or side seams and a corset on the whole can only be achieved by pressing them with a semi-professional iron or a professional iron with a powerful steam generator. Steam pressure should be no less than 3 bars.
Only now, after all face pieces have been pressed, you can shape them:
I stitch together the face cup pieces along their bust curves:
I trim seam allowances leaving about 0.2-0.3 inches:
The same is repeated with the other curve, the seam allowances are trimmed again.
You need to press out the curves: