Tutorial 4. Taking Pattern Measurements off the Mock-up.
I have put our mock-up onto the dress-form and stuffed it with some padding polyester and shoulder pads to give it a realistic shape.
Please make sure you recreate the desired shape of your corset properly when you put the mock-up onto the dress-form. All seams should be tight and directed the way you want. Only this kind of proper tightening will allow you to adjust the pattern. If you have a feeling that something is wrong, you will be able to take precise measurements only thanks to good tightening.
I have marked the waistline with points along the notches that show through. You can tie a cord around it if you want to be sure about its location. In my case everything matches so perfectly as if I had tied this cord before making notches.
Now I can take all necessary measurements for our pattern and write them down. I always write any reference symbols, commentaries, and alterations right on the pattern.
How do I take measurements?
If you want to have some space between the halves of the back (like in the picture above), you should measure full circumferences. But if you intend to make the halves close, then you should measure the back from edge to edge. If you want to have a V-cut at the back, you will have to alter the patterns, i.e. draw a triangle there.
This concerns the front V-cut as well. There is 1.5cm between the front pieces and we should account for this 1.5cm.
Now I will take and write down all measurements in such a way as if the back halves closed, i.e. from one edge of the back to the opposite edge. I don’t account for any distances apart from that 1.5cm. You can mark it on the pattern piece that the gap at the front is 1.5cm and then write the measurement down with 1.5cm accounted for. Everything should be in its actual sizes.
And now I take a measuring tape and measure the pieces:
- Along the waistline: there is 34cm from the edge of the back to the middle of the front, which means the full circumference is 68cm. The front halves close at the waistline level so we don’t need to account for 1.5cm.
What concerns the bust middle: the actual bust middle measurement should be somewhere here (see the picture below) and it equals about 19cm or maximum 20cm (I mark the points).
The princess seams are slightly inclined in accordance with the corset model. This however doesn’t mean that the bust middle measurement equals the distance between the princess seams (24 cm). Not at all! I believe this measurement is 19cm on the person who will wear this corset and on whom its cups should look like on the dress-form now. All princess seams are man-made for the sake of design. I write it onto the piece that the bust middle equals 19-20cm. You could use this pattern for sewing corsets with the bust middle measurement up to 24cm. But if your client’s measurement is considerably smaller, then the bust will have less volume too and so will everything else. So you couldn’t’ insert such cups into a corset like this if your client’s bust middle equaled, let’s say, 16-17cm. It means you will have to narrow the pattern in the bust middle area.
- Clip measurements are taken from the bust middle point.
- Clip to the scye: 11cm;
- Clip upwards is irrelevant in our case;
- Clip to the middle of the neckline: 6 cm.
- Bust front. It goes from one side seam to the opposite through the bust middle and equals 49cm.
- Under-bust front: 38cm from one side seam to the opposite.
- Bust circumference. At first I tie a cord along the bust line following the notches so as to see the line properly. As you can tell, the back is somewhat lifted up. We can correct it later on the pattern. The distance to the middle is 43cm; therefore the circumference equals 86cm.
- Under-bust circumference: 70cm.
- Bottom circumference: 92cm.
- Side length: 18.5cm. Please note that there are no seam allowances at the top. According to the technique for sewing organza corsets the top edge is given a pencil-edge finish instead of getting folded. So we see it all real-sized now.
- Corset length: 14cm.
- Stomach circumference. I measure it 12cm below the waistline. The result is 90cm.
- Side length: 18cm. I will trim the pattern in accordance with it.
I shall measure the length of straps and make a fastener during the fitting test. This is all about measuring our mock-up corset. Now we should just calculate the patterns after client’s measurements and cut them out of our fine luxurious fabric.