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Tutorial 43. Securing the Decorative Shoulder Ruffle in Place.

Tutorial 43. Securing the Decorative Shoulder Ruffle in Place.

Sewing the See-Through Skirt to the Main Dress.

I unfold the ruffle piece and pin it to the front of the dress along the seam that joins the ruffles. I put it to the front princess seam 1.5cm above the marked bottom border of the belt. I arrange the piece in a soft wave basically arriving at the middle of the neckline.

I form a fold of about 2cm by simply folding the piece in half, then bend the piece in the opposite direction, and pin it to the corner of the neckline.

The ruffles form a graceful zigzag. 

I fold the opposite end of the piece by 6-7cm to make sure it stays inside when I sew it on. 

I pin the ruffles to the top knot on the shoulder strap. 

Then I position the dress-form vertically, distribute the ruffles left and right of the joining seam, and pin the piece to the shoulder strap so I can secure it with hand stitches later. The ruffles "open up" beautifully and they will also sway in wear. You can arrange them in any way you like. You can achieve exactly the same look as on the original picture or make your own improvisation. 

I secure the piece with on-the-spot hand stitches on the shoulder strap and the bodice of the dress.  The ruffles will hold their shape well and look just gorgeous.

Here comes the exciting moment of joining the see-through skirt with the dress. I did another fitting and adjusted the length of the skirt on the client. I won't finish the closure area on the central seam at the back of the skirt because the mesh fabric is so thin that all seams would show trough. Instead, I will simply fold the raw edges and they will settle evenly upon the back of the dress.

I put the see-through skirt on the dress on the dress-form and pin it on along the waistline.

I sew the skirt in place by hand with small back stitches without taking the dress off the dress-form.  Considering the quite heavy weight of the skirt, I make two rows of stitches with doubled thread. I pull a nude elastic band over the seam and secure it with pins.

And then I carefully sew the elastic band in place with single-thread blind stitches. It is important to use a convenient lightweight dress-form. Heavy adjustable dress-forms are very awkward. You can always find a way out if your dress-form does not correspond with the desired size of the garment. For example, if your client's shoulder line is placed higher and you need to make the shoulder strap longer, you can simply put some foam shoulder pads or other similar pads on the shoulder of the dress-form.

I finish the sewing at the back of the dress. The elastic band settles around the dress tightly and neatly. 

The joining seams are barely noticeable thanks to the well-matched color of the thread. The dress has a very clean professional finish! 

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