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“Premium Dress” is a detailed guide to the sewing techniques employed in the making of a fantastic dress inspired by a famous Lebanese fashion designer – Krikor Jabotian.

Peculiar features of this corset dress:

  • The pattern was purposely designed to keep the front and the back of the skirt whole instead of splitting them up by vertical princess seams.
  • An additional princess seam on the front half of the lining ensures maximum tight fit in the waist.
  • The neckline edge is treated in a new special technique.
  • The dress features concealed side seams.
  • The dress is made from three layers: lining, background fabric, and sequin overlay fabric.
  • There is a blind zipper and concealed inner lacing.
  • Ruffles are sewn on the see-through skirt in accordance with a complicated layout scheme.
  • There is a 3D decorative ruffle piece on the shoulder of the dress.
  • The bodice is draped.
  • The dress is complemented with a decorative buckle and matching hair clips in the form of plastic suede flowers.

This course will teach you:

  • How to customize the size of a corset dress pattern for your client.
  • How to cut sequin fabric with minimum princess seams and achieve a tight fit in the waist.
  • In what order to join the pieces to achieve the best results.
  • How to sew curved princess seams neatly on “complicated” fabric (sequin fabric).
  • How to treat necklines (a new technique).
  • How to sew a lining worthy of a premium class garment.
  • How to sew concealed lacing panels into the dress.
  • How to sew a skirt from delicate mesh fabric and decorate it with a generous amount of ruffles in two different colors.
  • How to cut ruffles from thin fabric.
  • How to reinforce see-through mesh fabric for sewing ruffles on it.
  • How to create additional accessories to complement the dress (a belt brooch and matching hair clips).
  • How to make and color flowers from plastic suede.
  • How to make your own flower and petal moulds for working with plastic suede.

You will find enclosed:

  • Ready pattern of a bell-shaped slightly flared dress with a train sewn into the central back seam.
  • Ready pattern of the top see-through skirt with a layout scheme for sewing on ruffles.
  • Flower templates for plastic suede accessories.
  • Swirl template for cutting decorative shoulder ruffles.
  • Corset pattern, pattern adjustment calculations table, and ruffle layout scheme.

The purpose of this course is to help you master all technical know-how required for sewing the most sophisticated designer dresses!

The course will be helpful not only to beginners but also to those experienced in sewing. It is also suitable as a means of professional improvement for staff of sewing ateliers.

I would also like to emphasize that the dress from this course is merely a foundation for your own masterpieces. Let your creative spirit run free!



Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Julia Trofimova


Total length: 12h 57m

Tutorial 43. Securing the Decorative Shoulder Ruffle in Place.

Sewing the See-Through Skirt to the Main Dress.

I unfold the ruffle piece and pin it to the front of the dress along the seam that joins the ruffles. I put it to the front princess seam 1.5cm above the marked bottom border of the belt. I arrange the piece in a soft wave basically arriving at the middle of the neckline.

I form a fold of about 2cm by simply folding the piece in half, then bend the piece in the opposite direction, and pin it to the corner of the neckline.

The ruffles form a graceful zigzag. 

I fold the opposite end of the piece by 6-7cm to make sure it stays inside when I sew it on. 

I pin the ruffles to the top knot on the shoulder strap. 

Then I position the dress-form vertically, distribute the ruffles left and right of the joining seam, and pin the piece to the shoulder strap so I can secure it with hand stitches later. The ruffles "open up" beautifully and they will also sway in wear. You can arrange them in any way you like. You can achieve exactly the same look as on the original picture or make your own improvisation. 

I secure the piece with on-the-spot hand stitches on the shoulder strap and the bodice of the dress.  The ruffles will hold their shape well and look just gorgeous.

Here comes the exciting moment of joining the see-through skirt with the dress. I did another fitting and adjusted the length of the skirt on the client. I won't finish the closure area on the central seam at the back of the skirt because the mesh fabric is so thin that all seams would show trough. Instead, I will simply fold the raw edges and they will settle evenly upon the back of the dress.

I put the see-through skirt on the dress on the dress-form and pin it on along the waistline.

I sew the skirt in place by hand with small back stitches without taking the dress off the dress-form.  Considering the quite heavy weight of the skirt, I make two rows of stitches with doubled thread. I pull a nude elastic band over the seam and secure it with pins.

And then I carefully sew the elastic band in place with single-thread blind stitches. It is important to use a convenient lightweight dress-form. Heavy adjustable dress-forms are very awkward. You can always find a way out if your dress-form does not correspond with the desired size of the garment. For example, if your client's shoulder line is placed higher and you need to make the shoulder strap longer, you can simply put some foam shoulder pads or other similar pads on the shoulder of the dress-form.

I finish the sewing at the back of the dress. The elastic band settles around the dress tightly and neatly. 

The joining seams are barely noticeable thanks to the well-matched color of the thread. The dress has a very clean professional finish! 

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Wedding Dress with Built-in Corset

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