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Garments you can make using this technology:

Features:

  • Combination of two sewing technologies: traditional one-layer (transparent) corset + Throw-over technique.
  • Pattern with vertical front reliefs and modern round separately cut cups consisting of three parts.

Skills you gain:

  • Marking boning in separately cut cups consisting of three parts;
  • Adjusting the size of this cup;
  • A new way of treating the front part of the cup;
  • Assembling chequered pieces in the Throw-over technique;
  • Special features of cutting and assembling garment from chequered pieces of fabric.

Where to use:

  • Widely used technology for creating wedding (and evening) dresses, and also for youth fashion corsets.

 

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 5h 07m

Tutorial 6. Cutting Chequered Pieces on the Bias.

And now it’s time to work with our pretty chequered fabric.

Luckily for me, my fabric is double-faced and both sides are identical.


Now I need to lay these two layers together very carefully and evenly. There are a number of methods used for cutting chequered fabric but the key point is always the same – you need to match the squares very accurately.

In my case I can tell that the fabric is quite loosely woven and tends to shift from square to square.

So each time I’m just going to cut one layer first and then match the second layer to it because I’d have to spend much more time trying to match squares perfectly on a large sheet of fabric.

I put the central back piece on the fabric, match it accurately with the diagonal line of the squares, and trace it.


I cut it out very carefully.

This cut out central back piece will be joined with the side back piece. Their edges are nearly identical.

I place the cut out central back piece over the fabric so as to match its edges with the print.

I place the original side back piece over it matching their edges.


I trace the cut edge following the initial pattern piece.


Then I put the initial piece over the fabric again, match its edge with the line and trace the whole piece.

However we have applied some alterations to the side seam and the princess seam of the actual side piece of the corset back. The same needs to be done on the corresponding chequered piece. I place the lining on top of it and trace it. It is pretty time-consuming so be patient and don’t miss anything crucial.

Let’s see what comes out of it? We can still double-check everything and match the lines better since we haven’t cut it out yet. I pin the central piece to the outline of the side back piece matching their edges.

It does look quite neat!


Let’s cut out the side piece of the back. Don’t forget about all alterations we’ve had.

And then I need to cut out the next piece – the side front piece. I check if the side seam that joins the front and back pieces is well-matched. It looks good.

I put the cut out side piece of the back on the fabric and locate its side seam edge so as to match the print.


I put the side front piece over it, match their side seam edges, and trace it.


Then I remove the back piece, place the front piece over the fabric again matching its side seam edge with the drawn line and make a full outline of the side front piece. All alterations have been accounted for.


Before I start cutting this piece, let’s look at the way the squares are going to lie. It looks rather pretty. Let’s hope we will manage to join the pieces as successfully on the actual garment. I cut out the piece.

As you must have guessed, I am going to use these pieces for cutting out their ‘twins’ by placing each piece over the fabric and matching the squares as well as I can. I secure the pieces with pins and cut them out.

What I have as a result are the following patterns: the back and the side of the corset front made of chequered fabric, and their cotton lining base to prevent the chequered fabric from stretching; two front pieces made of the main fabric – the intermediate one and the central piece with a fold line.

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