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In this course we will learn how to sew the most popular wedding dress design – classic dress with a full skirt and lace straps.

And we will learn how to make a perfect fitting dress to a client from a long distance, relying solely on the measurements.


  • Sewing a crinoline petticoat from A-Z.
  • How to make opaque a skirt made from thin tulle.
  • How to calculate skirt width so it will fit perfectly to the crinoline.
  • How to adjust the pattern for you client’s size.
  • How to draft a pattern for the shoulder straps (2 options)
  • Peculiarities of long distance sewing.
  • How to make a “virtual” fit test.
  • How to use a mannequin for fit test.
  • What to do, when a mannequin won’t fit your client’s size.

Where to use:

  • This technology is absolutely universal and has no limits in choosing and creating any style of wedding and evening dresses!

Author: Tatiana Kozorovitsky

Total length: 11h 21m

Tutorial 8. Positioning Bottom Ruffles on the Petticoat.

The gathered ruffle is 380cm long – just what I needed.

First I will put that additional ruffle along the bottom edge of the petticoat and then I will put the main ruffle along the sewing line marked for hoop 1.

I mark a line for the additional ruffle. I step 3cm down the side seam from the second hoop. And I step 7cm down (and not 5cm as was planned initially) from the second hoop in the area between the train line and the central back seam.

As the result, part of the ruffle runs parallel to the hoop and then it gradually goes up.

The additional bottom ruffle will thus basically lie on the floor at the side seam. It will drag along the floor at the back and go just beyond the train preventing the lining from getting caught on the surface of the floor.

Firstly, when positioned like this, the additional ruffle will protect the lining of the train from getting dirty.

Secondly, it will help you avoid that nasty effect when the bride turns in her dress and the train stays "fixed" where it was.

We want the whole dress, including the train, to move in sync with the bride when she is dancing.

I put the additional ruffle along the marked line and sew it on starting from the central edge at the back of the skirt.

I leave about 5cm detached so I can join the ends of the ruffles neatly when sewing the central seam. 

I pin the ruffle to the mesh fabric and sew along the marked line. 

I trim the ruffle leaving a small end as I reach the side seam. 

I fold the end in and finish sewing as I reach the side seam of the petticoat.

I overlay the top edge of the ruffle with a bias tape for a clean finish leaving a detached end.

I secure the tape with another row of stitches along the top edge.

And then I move to the other side of the petticoat and secure the other half of the additional bottom ruffle the same way. I start sewing from the opposite side seam.

I overlay the edge of the ruffle with a bias tape.

The main bottom ruffle runs along the line marked for the tunnel for the second hoop. I start from the central edge at the back of the petticoat. Just like before, the ends of the ruffle are left detached.

And the edge is finished with a bias tape.

I secure the tape with another row of stitches along the top edge.

Here is what the ruffles look like from the inside of the petticoat:

I still don't know whether I will sew a tunnel on the inside. If not, I will simply insert the hoop in the tunnel made on the face.

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